A CHEF’S GUIDE
Chef and wine bar owner LESLIE HOTTIAUX shares her top tips for eating and drinking in NZ’s biggest city.
Leslie Hottiaux on Auckland, New Zealand.
It’s fitting that Kiwi chef and one-time San Pellegrino Best Young Chef Pacific winner Leslie Hottiaux talks so much about community and neighbours. Apero, the Auckland wine bar she opened with maître d’ partner Ismo Koski, is a cosy hangout that welcomes and comforts guests and locals with homely French flavours. Hottiaux believes that the people you break bread with are as important as the bread you break, as demonstrated by her guide to New Zealand’s City of Sails.
Refined Japanese
Cocoro is my absolute favourite restaurant. Makoto Tokuyama is such a talented chef who cooks refined Japanese cuisine – the sashimi platter is next level. It has an amazing wine and sake list, which turned me into a sake drinker. I love that you can go here for a big-splurge and celebration or just pop in for a low-key lunch. It really is my special place.
A French affair
If chefs are visiting me in Auckland, I’ll take them to lunch at Maison Vauron. The chef – one of my old head chefs – is from France, but he loves to cook old-school dishes. Terrines, rillettes, whatever the plat du jour may be on that day; everything on the menu is awesome. While you eat, you’re surrounded by wine which you can literally pull off the shelf and drink with lunch.
Korean made modern
Han offers a contemporary take on Korean food, and it’s amazing. You can go there and eat modern dishes, like a Korean pancake with honeybuttered squid, or you can have traditional Korean barbecue, which is great fun with kids. Han’s kimchi is so delicate – it’s spicy but subtle.
Cazador has a totally unique approach to food and the cuts it uses. My favourite dish is the venison heart – it’s simply grilled and served almost rare with gremolata. It’s like butter in your mouth. Chef Dariush
Lolaiy’s charcuterie game is really strong and he loves to hunt and display taxidermy on the walls in the restaurant. It used to be his dad’s place, so it’s been around for a long time. They’ve also recently opened a deli where you can buy cured meats and wild game pies.
Polished cooking minus the pretence
Lillius is a new-ish restaurant that does everything right without any pretence. It serves beautiful food in a beautiful room, created by a beautiful couple. The food is polished and is made with a lot of passion and technique. It’s elevated but the service is nice and relaxed.
K-Road cool
Coco’s Cantina is such a special restaurant run by great people, who are also our neighbours. I had my first date with my partner there many years ago, and it’s still really special, even after 10 years. In my opinion, it’s the coolest joint in town. You definitely go there for the ambiance. It’s super-relaxed, super-friendly, and the type of place where you always run into someone you know.
A neighbourhood fave
The Engine Room is a local gem that continues to be amazing and is worth the trip over the [Auckland Harbour] bridge. It’s run by a couple that just keep going. I have a lot of respect for what they do and also how they do it. It’s super-classic French cooking. The blue-cheese soufflé is famous, and the veal schnitzel is delicious. The staff also have incredible wine knowledge.
Modern Indian with a view
I have special memories of finedining restaurant Sidart. Eating chef Sid Sahrawat’s food is an exciting and memorable experience. It’s modern-Indian cooking that’s also highly technical and incredibly creative. The view of Auckland’s skyline is pretty incredible, too.
Late-night tipples
After service, we like to go to GG x Flamingo, which is across the road from Apero. Sammy the owner is such a wonderful host and the drinks are on-point. Pro-tip: Next door is Satya Chai Lounge, where you can find some of the tastiest Indian street food around. There’s also Caretaker: a cosy bar serving bespoke cocktails in Britomart.
The best supper spot
If we’re going to get something to eat after service, Chinese dumpling restaurant New Flavour on Dominion Road is the one. It’s BYO and it’s open until 4am. I always order the beef and coriander dumplings, and dried tofu skin with cucumber and crisp pork – my guilty pleasure.
Our wine bar, our way
In a kind of an ironic way, my partner and I created Apero for ourselves. If we were to go out, we’d want to go to a place like Apero. We wanted to create something casual and relaxed – the kind of place you can stop by for a glass of wine and a piece of terrine, or stay and spend the night. I’m French, so I cook French food, and my partner takes care of the floor and the wine list.
It’s not a brasserie; it’s not fine dining. We’re just Apero food and wine. ●
As told to Jessica Rigg for The Local Tongue. For more chef’s guides from around the world, see thelocaltongue.com