Sopressini pasta with pesto alla Trapanese

And then it was September. Typically, this issue would herald the winners of our annual Restaurant Awards and Guide. Given there has been nothing typical about 2020 so far, it will come as little surprise to learn we have chosen not to publish them this year. Logistically, it was impossible. No sooner had our team of reviewers begun the process in March, it unravelled as the country went into lockdown.

More importantly, we felt continuing with the awards – in any shape or form – wouldn’t serve the industry at a time when every chef and restaurateur is in a fight for survival. Particularly those in Melbourne, who have been hit doubly hard. We began work on this issue before the second Melbourne lockdown began. Already, we knew the impact of Covid-19 had been seismic. Just what the new hospitality landscape will look like – or when it will emerge – remains unclear. In the meantime, we want to support the industry and those who dedicate their lives to it, by sharing their stories – their challenges and their successes. What they need most right now is kindness and empathy, which come from understanding the realities they face.

This issue is dedicated to exploring those realities, from Tristan Lutze’s

State of the Industry report to Yvonne Lam’s poignant tribute to Chinatown. We also spoke to a number of chefs for a first-hand insight into their experience, as they have reset and recalibrated.

Later this year, we will publish a special celebration issue, heroing the resilience and creativity that has come to the fore this year. For now, we hope this issue will shine a light on the industry, helping to spread understanding and encourage a little kindness.