Gourmet Traveller (Australia)

RETURN TO MARKET

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There are many things that have benefitted from a reignited appreciati­on over the past few months, and Carriagewo­rks Farmers Market is truly one of them. The weekly fixture of the Sydney food scene went into hiatus in late March, when Covid-19 struck two-fold. The wider precinct went into voluntary administra­tion in early May and as a result the market’s long-term fate was uncertain. Now the market is back – thanks in part to the philanthro­pic-led bailout of Australia’s largest multi-use arts and culture facility.

Carriagewo­rks Farmers Market’s creative director Mike McEnearney saw the gaping hole the temporary closure of the markets left in the wider community. “We’ve got over 80 NSW producers that come every week – and for them to have to just stop, when they’ve got food in the ground and mouths to feed, it was really hard,” he says.

“But we’ve come out the other side and everyone is just chomping at the bit to get back.”

While the food retail element was sorely missed, McEnearney points to the wider impact the market has on community, connection and education. “There’s been a growing concern for some time now – people want to know the postcode of their asparagus. People are understand­ing how important the role of a community is much more now,” says McEnearney. To this end, it’s all long-standing stallholde­rs returning. “It’s the dialogue people can truly form at a market. To have a real conversati­on with a real person, about what they produce and form a relationsh­ip with them,” says McEnearney.

Stallholde­rs are equally as ready. Cultured butter maestros Pepe Saya, are excited to get back out and showcase new products they developed in lockdown, like a chantilly mascarpone and a new smoked butter.

“It’s so important because it gives us a chance to talk directly to the customer and get immediate feedback.

The market is a melting pot of people from every aspect of the food community: home cooks, chefs, other stallholde­rs,” says founder Pierre “Pepe” Issa.

Alongside fresh produce and larder goods, the market will also welcome back brunchtime favourites such as Bar Pho, Flour and Stone, Single O and Crumpets by Merna. Across the markets, social distancing will be firmly enforced, with stallholde­rs being more spread out than before and mask-wearing encouraged. “We want everyone to feel safe on their return,” says McEnearney.

245 Wilson Street, Eveleigh, NSW. Saturdays, 8am-1pm, carriagewo­rks.com.au

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