QUEENSLAND
Agnes
Opened August 2020
Who Ben Williamson (chef and co-owner), Tyron Simon, Frank Li and Bianca Marchi (co-owners)
Vibe A darkly beautiful venue manned by a team with talent to burn.
Verdict Expect myriad grill thrills and plenty of dry-aged carnivore treats. But Agnes is way more than just a “hot coals, good times” kinda gal. Consider the snacks. Smoky bonito sandwiched between soft rounds of white bread and dialled up with creamy white ’nduja with a tangy white strawberry salsa. Or scarlet prawn doughnuts amped with Vietnamese mint. This moodily lit warehouse conversion, with its hidden al fresco rooftop terrace and well-stocked bar is 2020’s surprise package. On fire.
22 Agnes St, Fortitude Valley, (07) 3067 9087, agnesrestaurant.com.au
SK Steak & Oyster
Opened December 2019
Who Kelvin Andrews (chef and co-owner), Simon Gloftis and Theo Kampolis (co-owners)
Vibe Glamorous dining with grown-up service in a venue tailored to impress.
Verdict Ensconced in the capital’s most fashionable hotel, SK Steak & Oyster feels like Brisbane’s ultimate virtual getaway. An escape portal to better times, abetted by a tome-like wine list, white-jacketed staff and an evocative fit-out. It’s bright and airy by day and flatteringly low-lit by night. Soaring ceilings, plush banquettes and linen-napped tables provide a cosseting backdrop for the lush likes of lobster risotto and oysters finished with frothing Billecart-Salmon. Or perhaps just a $32 wagyu burger and a Martini, or three. A contemporary take on the US grill that’s become an instant institution.
The Calile Hotel, 48 James St, Fortitude Valley, (07) 3252 1857, sk-so.com
Same, Same
Opened November 2019
Who Ben Bertei (chef and co-owner), Tyron Simon and Frank Li (co-owners) Vibe High-octane Thai prettily elevated to suit upscale surrounds.
Verdict Striking digs with pale oak timber detailing, gracious curves and tropical plants make this chic successor to the owner’s wildly popular Longtime a feast for the eyes as well as the belly. An on-trend wine list, mainly organic, is compellingly put together. Kick off with a signature G&T and snacks – prawn larb tacos and betel leaf miang perhaps, then segue to smoky grilled prawns daubed with pickled chilli butter, or a signature yellow curry of Bundaberg Bay bug. There’s a cracking $65 banquet, too. It’s loud and it’s fun. But it’s definitely not same-same.
Ada Lane, 46 James St, Fortitude Valley, (07) 3188 1418, samesamerestaurant.com.au
Stanley
Opened November 2019
Who Louis Tikaram (executive chef)
Vibe Enduring Chinese classics served with panache in chic waterfront digs.
Verdict Set dramatically on the riverfront beneath the industrial ribs of the Story Bridge, this bustling newcomer brings old-school Hong Kong style to Brisbane. It’s a feeling that persists whether you’re dining al fresco on the deck or installed at a table in the heritage two-storey venue. Expect (mainly) Cantonese favourites – roast duck with five-spice sauce, say, or a chilli-amped kung pao chicken and sweet and sour pork all skilfully elevated by a kitchen headed by gun chef Louis Tikaram.
Howard Smith Wharves, 5 Boundary St, Brisbane, (07) 3558 9418, stanleyrestaurant.com.au
Yoko Dining
Opened November 2019
Who Jonathan Barthelmess (owner) and Kitak Lee (chef) Vibe High-energy, tightly focused Japanese fun.
Verdict There’s never a dull moment at Yoko, a sleek subtropical interpretation of boisterous Japanese izakaya. Head upstairs to a hidden mezzanine area for late-night party times, or relish Brisbane’s climate in a sunny riverfront booth. Inside, skilfully lit double-height interiors provide insight into the original warehouse building. Try a creamy fleshed kingfish collar or get beefy with sesame and onion boosted wagyu intercostals. The Yoko Feast ($80) provides a tasty overview and Yoko’s heaped shaved milk iced dessert, enriched with nutty roasted soy kinako, is a suitably chilled-out finish. Howard Smith Wharves, 2/5 Boundary St, Brisbane,
(07) 3236 6582, yokodining.com.au