MANGER ALL DAY
ALEXANDRA CARLTON finds classic French excellence in a room that hums rather than buzzes, plus a bakery and deli next door.
Bustling French bistro” is one of those food writer clichés that gets pulled out to quickly illustrate pops of Champagne, the sizzle of steak frites, the clamour of copper pots, the accented banter of your aproned servers. But the first thing I notice upon arriving at Loulou Bistro, a restaurant-traiteur tucked just off the tip of the Harbour Bridge in Milsons Point, is that they’ve made a solid effort to tone down the “bustling” part. Despite the bentwood chairs on concrete floors and closepacked banquettes, the restaurant’s soundproofing is excellent. The visual bustle is there but I can hear my dining partner, and I can’t hear the conversation of the table next to me and that’s a satisfying start in my eyes.
The considerate acoustics mean my other senses get to run the show and they’re in for a treat. Visually, the space isn’t rewriting any rule books but it does what it does well: creamy leather seating, natty retro drinks trolleys, plates printed with charming French phrases. And then on to taste and flavour. This is where things get really good.
I love the confines of a proper, let’s-not-mess-around French menu and that’s what culinary director Sebastien Lutaud and head chef Billy Hannigan (formerly The Ledbury in London and Bistro Guillaume) have written up here.
The steak tartare is exactly what it should be: cut fine, polished with a perfect raw egg and a halo of potato crisps. Pommes dauphines are pillowy clouds, topped with a wavy icing of sharp Swiss Tête de Moine cheese. Swordfish makes a surprising appearance in the rillettes, but it’s still as buttery as if they were made from salmon or pork.
The wine list is sunnily approachable: a mix of French and Australian, and written in a way to help the hesitant explore (several opaque French options include Chardonnay or Cabernet Sauvignon/ Merlot in parentheses to give them a familiar anchor). And staff appear the minute you furrow your brow, ready with suggestions.
We don’t order the day’s pâté en croute but only because I’ve already tried a version from the attached deli/ bakery – yes, you can take away almost all the pastries, bread, pickles, pâtés and more from this menu to eat at home, from early in the morning to early evening – so I’m across how good it is with its chunky, crusty pastry and meatiness. Instead we choose a pull-apart brined and rôtisseried chook and a simple, well-dressed leaf salad, then a buoyant strawberry soufflé. Such elegance and grace.
All very good and right.
By the end of the night, the wine and good times have cranked the noise levels of the room up a few decibels but it’s still convivial rather than clamour. Once I leave though, I know I’ll be making plenty of noise about this place.