SEA TREASURE
Two Melbourne restaurants with a distinctly European bent are leading the way with fresh dishes that celebrate the umami-rich Leeuwin Coast Akoya. Here they share their take on this sustainable Western Australian delicacy.
MOVIDA
Iconic Spanish bar MoVida, in Melbourne’s graffiti-slathered Hosier Lane, offers tapas and share plates that showcase the best seasonal Australian produce with a Catalan edge. Since it opened in 2003, MoVida has celebrated all things Spanish with favourite tapas including its anchovy with smoked tomato sorbet as well as a daily changing menu that reflects fresh local produce. Chef Kane Vokoun who has worked alongside MoVida chef-owner Frank Camorra for the past 10 years at MoVida’s Aqui and Lorne, now helms MoVida Original. Vokoun’s passion for flavour-forward, local and sustainable produce led him to discover the Leeuwin Coast Akoya, a delicate shellfish traditionally grown for pearls. Native to Western Australia, grown sustainably in the pristine waters of Albany, Leeuwin Coast is the first company in the world to grow the Akoya for culinary purposes. With its unique flavour profile – a cross between a mussel, scallop and abalone – it’s no wonder that Vokoun has put this versatile shellfish on the menu with his pickled Akoya with fermented chickpea, whipped garlic and kohlrabi (pictured). “We’ve heroed the Akoya alongside the humble chickpea by using the chickpea in its fresh and fermented forms,” explains Vokoun.
NAKED FOR SATAN
Euro-centric rooftop bar Naked for Satan uses local produce to offer modern bistro fare with an edge. Chef Chris Newman (ex-Press Club) draws on his northern English fishing town roots to focus on seafood. His raw Akoya with yuzu compressed apple, dill and crème fraîche (pictured) is Newman’s ode to the Leeuwin Coast Akoya. Newman says this dish was an experiment to see whether the Akoya “could stand up to the same garnishes as an oyster”. Newman explains that he added “crème fraîche for a little fattiness to counterbalance the minerality of the Akoya” and “yuzu to compress the diced apple as it carries a pleasant bitterness while still fruity and sweet”. The verdict? “I feel the flavours really stood up well with the Akoya more than an oyster as it has a slightly chewier texture that marries well with the garnishes.” He describes the unique taste as “somewhere between an oyster, scallop and clam”. The Akoya’s sustainability is the game changer. “We often change our oyster offering and I jumped at the chance to learn about the Akoya. It is so exciting to be a part of something new on our own doorstep.”