Gourmet Traveller (Australia)

RESTAURANT NEWS

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SYDNEY

While chef Somer Sivrioğlu may have become a household name in his birth land of Turkey thanks to his role judging Masterchef, he’s back in Australia, opening Maydanoz down the Wynyard end of the CBD. Focusing on vegetables – but not wholly vegetarian – the 100-seat restaurant plucks inspiratio­n from the Aegean Turkish coastline. Meze-style bites favour bright herbs, spices and grains and legumes, be it carrot hummus with turmeric and dukkah; dolmas with sun-dried eggplant, rice, chickpea, tomato and mint; and cavolo nero and leek pie with zucchini and haloumi. Wine-wise, mineral-driven drops taken from amphora vessels and organic vineyards will lead the wine list, which can be enjoyed alongside compliment­ary dips and flatbread during Maydanoz’s weekday happy hour.

The CBD scores another win with the arrival of French brasserie, Manon.

Taking up shop in the former Jet Bar Caffe digs on the corner of the Queen Victoria Building, the Euro-chic diner is being overseen by Marco Ambrosino and Manny Spinola, who most recently opened Lola’s in Bondi. The corner QVB spot is primed for its all-day service, from baguettes, coffee and croquemons­ieur from 6am to late-night suppers on Fridays and Saturdays. For long lunches and dinners you’ll find bone marrow tartine; steak frites; crab bisque soufflé, beef Wellington and duck à l’orange, all to be enjoyed in an elegant setting that draws upon the architectu­re of the QVB and the classic style cues of French bistros.

Across the way in Pyrmont a ramen concept has arrived at The Star direct from Tokyo. Mashi No Mashi centres Ozaki beef from Japan, a hyper premium beef, which they describe as being the top one per cent of Kobe beef, sourced from the top 20 best farmers in Japan. Co-founder chef Hisato Hamada developed 24-hour stewed Ozaki beef bone stock, and is excited to bring the concept to Australia after spending much of his childhood in Sydney.

Over the bridge chef Sam Young (ex-Lotus) has opened S’more alongside his partner Grace Chen in Castlecrag. The pair, who delivered some serious decadence throughout lockdown through their private catering gig, the Big Sam Young Experience, will continue to serve up luxury bites, including XO pipi linguine, lobster pasta and bone-in sirloin with ginger shallot relish.

VICTORIA

Flinders Lane has a new izakayains­pired bar restaurant dubbed Otōto, from the team behind Akaiito. Literally meaning younger brother in Japanese, the undergroun­d bar is located below its big brother Akaiito. Head chef Winston Zhang doesn’t stick wholly to a Japanese menu, also including ingredient­s and techniques from Korean and Chinese cuisines. You can expect robata-grilled meats; kingfish sashimi with grapefruit, daikon and ponzu served elegantly atop a slab of pink salt; and steak tartare with shallots, shio koji, pear, cured egg yolk and prawn crackers.

Following some delays Moonhouse has opened in Balaclava. The Chinese bistro by Commune Group is headed up by executive chef Anthony Choi and head chef Shirley Summakwan, who combine nostalgic Chinese flavours with a top-notch Australian wine list.

In Hawthorn, Farro has opened another location. The organic pizza spot caters to vegans and coeliacs, with an emphasis on slowly fermented spelt sourdough pizza, alongside organic spelt pasta, house-made desserts and cocktails.

In Ballarat, Pencilmark Wine Room is set to open at the original Underbar Ballarat site. Chef and owner Derek Boath is behind the new wine bar, which will focus on minimal interventi­on producers. He will also oversee the move to Underbar’s new location, which will retain its small, intimate feel, moving into Vera, a luxury seven-room hotel set to arrive on Sturt Street.

WESTERN AUSTRALIA

In Busselton, Alberta’s Kitchen and Store has opened, backed by two former Noma alumni. Owners Ben Ing and Kirsty Marchant met while working together at the esteemed Copenhagen restaurant, and will bring their experience in the kitchen and on the floor to the producerfo­cused eatery. Rather than being a restaurant or café, the space will evolve, starting with morning bites, with plans to introduce a lunch service and special dinner events. Working directly with the farmers and producers, the menu is ever changing depending on access to produce.

 ?? ?? Clockwise from above: Maydanoz’s dining room and Zumrut cocktail; cacik with grilled cucumber and mint at Maydanoz; duck à l’orange at Manon; wagyu ramen at Mashi No Mashi.
Clockwise from above: Maydanoz’s dining room and Zumrut cocktail; cacik with grilled cucumber and mint at Maydanoz; duck à l’orange at Manon; wagyu ramen at Mashi No Mashi.
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 ?? ?? Clockwise from above left: sourdough spelt pizza at Farro; Alberta’s Kitchen and Store’s Ben Ing in the kitchen; pipis at Moonhouse, and the bar.
Clockwise from above left: sourdough spelt pizza at Farro; Alberta’s Kitchen and Store’s Ben Ing in the kitchen; pipis at Moonhouse, and the bar.
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