BACK IN THE DAY DINING
Chefs share dining memories of yesteryear, from nostalgic chains to family rituals.
Rosheen Kaul
Head chef, Etta
I have very fond memories of some excellent American chain restaurants in Singapore: Rainforest Cafe and Tony Roma’s particularly. In Melbourne, my family and I loved TGI Fridays. Australia was and still is very lacking in US restaurant chains (which isn’t necessarily a bad thing), but it’s something we definitely missed from Singapore. TGI Fridays really followed that amazing ’90s-Americana style, and honestly their buffalo wings were the best. It always had that really nostalgic popcorn-y movie theatre smell, because our local TGI Fridays was right next to the Village Cinemas Jam Factory. Mum and Dad loved the Margaritas during happy hour, and my sister and I were thrilled at the novelty of bottomless soft drinks. I haven’t been back in years, though. I’m happy to keep these fond memories in my past instead of potentially ruining them.
I’ve yet to find a better buffalo wing, though.
Oscar Solomon
Executive chef, Yoko Dining and Greca
When I was in primary school, all my friends and their families would go to Bill and Toni’s together. The paper tablecloths, arcade style games and inhouse gelateria meant we could draw, scribble and make one hell of a mess. Especially with their spaghetti ragù alla Bolognese that often ended up as a part of our tablecloth masterpieces, amid the crayons and various other provided art utensils (ballsy if you think about it). I remember fondly eating cotoletta parmigiana and spaghetti ragù alla Bolognese with watered down jugs of cordial.
James MacDonald
Executive chef, Odd Culture Group
Growing up we’d go out to restaurants once a week. Both my mum and dad were okay if we didn’t like things, but we always had to try new things. One memory that stands out was Viet Hoa – a Vietnamese restaurant in Northbridge, Perth. The prawn crackers had small dried prawns throughout, and I loved them. There was also a place in Swanbourne – Kitchen Express, opposite the train station that had amazing sausage rolls the diameter of a tennis ball. Finally, going to the footy and getting Chicken Treat [a popular West Australian rotisserie chain] was a real thing. Dining out no matter what tier really helps at any age; plus both my parents are good cooks so we had amazing food at home. Having that constant exposure really helped me develop a curiosity for food from a young age.
Tana Rattananikom
Head chef, Cumulus Inc
My father worked in a hotel in Sydney’s CBD for many years back in the ’90s, and every so often we would go in for dinner. When I speak to my family about those times we laugh a lot, because we always had the same food, starting with chicken satay and finishing with crème caramel, all to a soundtrack of Kenny G. A strange combination, I know. Dad being in hospitality really meant that the only time together was mostly at the restaurant. It was extremely special because it was a time where the whole family was able to be together and see him at his finest: clean pressed whites, silly tall chef hat and a dozen pens hanging off the side of his jacket.