Guitarist

the Mod squad

a reader suffering string break problems and a modder who’s taken control of his tone: David Burrluck considers their dilemmas

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QWhy do I keep breaking guitar strings? I seem to be snapping the buggers left, right and centre, and I’ve had enough. I’ve actually gone up a gauge recently, although I really didn’t want to. I thought that would put an end to the problem, but I snapped another string in rehearsal last night. You guys must’ve suffered from this annoyance, too, or at least advised people on it before. I know you don’t have the guitar in front of you, but what tips can you give me? Jim Lawrence, via email

AAside from just being plain unlucky, there are two main culprits here: string fatigue and sharp edges. Without getting into the science of metals, strings don’t last forever. The metal becomes less malleable, tuning and intonation can suffer, and then there’s the build up of sweat and gunk (technical term!) that all collude to reduce the strings’ useful life. Cleaning your strings might make them feel a little better, but don’t be guilty of false economy: change them regularly.

But what if you feel your strings are within their ‘good’ period and you still break them too often? Quite possibly at the point at which the string breaks (invariably the saddle), or the point at which the string passes over the edge of the top block of a vibrato, or at the tuner’s string post, there’s

a sharp edge. Use a small needle file to smooth any burrs or edges, then a rub with 600-grit wet and dry. Maintenanc­e like this, especially with bent steel Strat saddles, might not just save a string break but can aid a vibrato’s return to pitch. Lubricatio­n isn’t really necessary if sharp edges are removed, but used sparingly it won’t harm anything. Graph Tech has long made String Saver saddles for Strats, Teles and tune-o-matics, and although they might subtly alter your sound, we’ll pretty much guarantee they’ll solve any saddle-break problems you have.

Locking tuners can very occasional­ly be problemati­c because typically you’re only passing the string through the post, pulling it as tight as you can then locking it. This means there are no (or fewer) wraps around the post and when the string exits the post it’s bent at a very sharp angle. It might be that you need to check that exit point and smooth any burrs or edges – it’s far from the norm, but can certainly happen. One turn around the post before you go through the string hole and locking the string can also help.

Another potential problem lies with the ball-end and the way in which it’s wrapped onto the string. There was a trend in the whammy years for reinforced twists around the ball-end, but the length of that twist can also be an issue with wrapover bridges, top loading a stud tailpiece and deep-drilled vibrato blocks. If this is where you’re breaking strings, you might need to look to at a different brand.

And luck can certainly play its part. I remember a gig at the old Marquee Club where, on the opening number, our lead guitar player broke three strings – a disastrous start to a support slot from which we didn’t really recover. Afterwards, I thoroughly checked the guitar and really couldn’t find a problem. We put it down to a combinatio­n of adrenaline and the strings themselves and didn’t, for a number of years, use that brand again. Was there actually a problem with the strings themselves? We’ll never know, but never be afraid to try different brands. Never fit new strings if there’s any sign of corrosion, either. Numerous brands had this problem when their suppliers changed the makeup of the wallet paper – one reason so many brands now pack their strings in foil wallets.

Also, any string will break if you apply enough force. Bear that in mind when you’re bashing, bending and whammying away (or using raised alternativ­e tunings). It might mean you need to adjust your string gauge. Also be careful when stretching your strings. Don’t randomly yank them. Instead, lay your guitar on your lap or a table, press the string down slightly over the saddle with your right hand while you hold each string with your left and push it with your thumb right along the length of the string. A few light bends behind the nut will help, too, and likewise behind the bridge if you have a trapeze tailpiece.

The reality is you’ll probably break a string at some important point in your playing career, that’s a given. The way you deal with it is the key. The Mod Squad mantra is, of course, be prepared! Spare strings are obvious to go in your gigbag along with a torch, string cutters, a string wider and a headstock tuner. A few small Allen keys are also handy, both for unhooking strings that are locked around a tuner post or pushing a ball-end through a vibrato block. Obviously, if it’s an important gig then make sure you have a spare guitar, especially if your main guitar has a vibrato. Blindingly obvious stuff… but very often overlooked. Good luck!

Aside from being unlucky, string breaks are usually due to string fatigue and sharp edges

 ??  ?? These PRS Phase II locking tuners (retrofitte­d to a Yamaha) are good at their job, but on some similar tuners there can be a sharp point where the string exits the post – string break potential!
These PRS Phase II locking tuners (retrofitte­d to a Yamaha) are good at their job, but on some similar tuners there can be a sharp point where the string exits the post – string break potential!

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