When it comes to spring drinking, pinot gris is the real deal, according to UK wine writer Jane Parkinson. She tastes and rates 12 top international examples of this versatile wine.
IJane Parkinson
f pinot gris had to be de ned by a season, surely it would be spring. Its mellow richness gives it a winterwarming property, while its tangy refreshment hints at the warmer weather to come. But wait, we can go no further without mentioning pinot grigio – the Italian name for the French pinot gris. Even though the grape is the same, the di erences between the two wines made under these names are huge.
Pinot grigio has – to much of the wine trade’s surprise – captured the imagination of wine drinkers the world over. Originally from north-east Italy, where the cooling breezes o lakes and mountains produce a crisp style, grigio is typically dry, light and fruity. It is not destined to be a complex wine, just easy-drinking refreshment. Today it is made in warmer climates and often picked early o the vines to mimic this popular light, fresh and fruity style.
Pinot gris is not as ubiquitous or fashionable as grigio and yet it is widely thought to make a more serious wine, with a price tag to match. A speciality of France’s Alsace region – as generations of producers there honed the potential of gris – it became clear this wine can be just as delicious when dry, o -dry or fully sweet. And even though Alsace pinot gris remains the global benchmark for the style, many new and exciting regions are also now making it well. New Zealand and Oregon are two in particular, but also Germany and even England.
Gris is generally more interesting than grigio for a variety of reasons. ere is more exibility with picking times, which can generate di erent avours and styles. Its typically richer avour gives it a weightier presence in the mouth, which is sometimes enhanced by gris’ willingness to spend time in barrel. And a higher residual sugar level can also bolster the weighty presence in its mouthfeel – yet its pristine, cooling acidity allows it to take an extra hit of sweetness in its stride.
Yes, there is one white wine that has spring written all over it and I’m convinced it’s pinot gris.