Meet former Wallaby turned french wine entrepreneur, David Lyons

Former Wallaby David Lyons has swapped a life of rugby union for the world of wine. He explains how his time spent living in France led him into this new passion – and his own wine business.

Have you always been so interested in wine?

I spent six years in Paris, moving over to join [rugby union team] Stade Francais, and some of my best friends there are among the biggest restaurateurs, pub owners and wine buyers in France. I was always into wine, but I became consumed by their passion. Did you find the French wine culture different to Australia?

I quickly realised how much of an important part wine is with your meal. You really see the people’s passion. And in the winemaking, they really believe in the terroir and what’s in the field, trying not to influence things too much. All the top wines are an extension of the makers and their personalities. With all the great wines, you can really feel that.

Do you find rugby and wine connected in any way?

The funny thing is that a lot of the big rugby regions around the world are also the main wine-producing regions. There are the wine regions around France, particularly in the south, and then

places such as Argentina and South Africa’s Stellenbosch. Some of the best rugby players are from farms and vineyards.

You’re originally from Orange in NSW. Do you have a soft spot for the wine from there?

It’s great to see the Orange wine scene grow and the quality rise compared to when I was a kid. I love the region’s cool-climate chardonnays and there are some great producers there, such as Philip Shaw and Printhie.

Do you have any special bottles in your collection?

I have quite a few, including the 2006 Chateau La Tour as well as a couple of other lovely ones that I’m waiting to open.

What is the most sentimental wine in your cellar?

Last year, I spent a week in Champagne during harvest with Leclerc Briant, which is one of the producers we import. When that comes out, it will be one of the most sentimental wines for me. I wasn’t too good at bending over and picking the grapes while working during vintage, but I did come in handy when it came time to throw the barrels around.

What are your favourite Australian wine regions?

I love those cool-climate chardonnays from Orange and I think some cabernets from the Clare Valley are first-class.

And your favourite French regions?

I love the passion and ethos of Burgundy, but my favourite region is the Rhone. When you go there and see how they’ve built on the side of these cliffs – I just find it amazing. I really like that wine style. It’s probably my favourite in terms of value for money and quality.

Did you make any great wine discoveries on tour during your rugby career?

I would always try to get out of the city and visit vineyards and do some wine tasting. All these little things add up in life. You learn a little more about what you like and don’t like. That’s the thing about wine – there’s no one best wine. Every glass has different characteristics and someone will appreciate one trait while someone else will appreciate another. It’s about broadening your experiences.

Do you have a most memorable food and wine experience? I’ll never forget one time in Argentina. I went there while I was playing in France and one of the guy’s cousins owned a big vineyard and cattle property. We had the most amazing Argentinian barbecue of top-quality beef cooked on the coals, served with malbec.

Is there a highlight wine experience that stands out from your time in France?

Once in Burgundy, we were going through the cellar of one of our producers and he suprised us by organising for his chef to bring us dinner down there. We sat on stools and ate a threecourse meal, drinking too many of his old wines. The more wines we’d have, the more excited he’d get and the older the bottles got. That was a very memorable experience!

What’s your best tip for anyone new to French wines?

The wine world can be so big and there are thousands of wines, so the best way is to find a retailer who you trust and who can take you along the great journey.

I love the passion and ethos of Burgundy, but my favourite region is the Rhone... It’s probably my favourite in terms of value for money and quality.