2016 Mayford Porepunkah Chardonnay

If there is a heavier Burgundy-shaped bottle, I haven’t encountered it, and have no wish to do so. Happily for those who have lugged a 6-bottle case into their cellar, the wine is full of character. If they’ve picked up 12 bottles they are either Olympic weightlifters or in hospital after cardiac arrest. The wine has a ramrod-straight link through the length of the palate, and will only soften slowly as it ages. It will be worth the weight and the wait. 13% alc.

RRP $38 / 2029 / Mayford Wines mayfordwines.com