Nest in the hills

Head to the Central West of NSW and explore some of Mudgee’s best wineries, and places to eat and stay. Be warned: you will need more than a weekend to fit everything in.

Take a tour of Mudgee in New South Wales, where a gourmet getaway awaits.

Less than a four-hour drive northwest of Sydney, far enough away to have its own distinct personality, Mudgee is an ideal getaway for wine and food lovers. There is a real sense of country Australian community, with a dash of inner-city style to knock off the rough edges. With more than 35 cellar doors, enticing cafes and restaurants, a brewery, distillery, and monthly farmers’ market, there’s plenty to do in this nest in the hills, as its Indigenous name translates.

THE TASTING TOUR

First stop must be the rustic cellar door at Robert Stein Winery, where multi-award-winning, third-generation winemaker Jacob Stein is creating exceptional riesling, chardonnay and shiraz. Grandfather Robert Stein’s motorcycle museum is a bonus. robertstein.com.au

Enjoy the easy-going atmosphere at Lowe Wines, where passionate producer David Lowe is serious about his minimal-intervention, biodynamic, small-batch winemaking. Try the Lowe Zinfandel, Block 5 Shiraz and Nullo Mountain Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling. lowewine.com.au

With a sleek tasting room cantilevered over the vineyards, Logan Wines is a great stop on your way into Mudgee. From grapes grown in Mudgee and Orange, Peter Logan crafts a wide range of styles with Australian fresh fruit flavours, and European structure and finesse. Seek out their riesling, rosé and shiraz and taste them alongside a platter of local cheeses, charcuterie, honeycomb, olives and relishes. loganwines.com.au

The Cellar by Gilbert is set in a classy stone building oozing country charm. There’s a shady terrace to enjoy light lunches of seasonal local fare, and a fire pit where Saturday lunches are cooked during the cooler months. Book a wine masterclass with Simon or Will Gilbert to

taste their elegant, cool-climate Orange and Mudgee wines paired with small bites. And don’t miss sampling the Goose Apple Cider and a range of cheeses from High Valley Mudgee Cheese Co. gilbertfamilywines.com.au

Visit the Oatley family’s atmospheric Craigmoor Wines, its cool cellar door filled with large puncheon barrels. The oldest winery in Mudgee, originally developed by the Roth family in 1858, Craigmoor now focuses on Oatley’s Mudgee wines, such as the Montrose Black Mudgee Shiraz. craigmoor.com.au/mudgee.html

Enjoy cabernet sauvignon, semillon and late harvest semillon at Huntington Estate’s rustic cellar door. Then order Mudgee’s best burgers at the courtyard’s 53FoodCo food truck, which you can wash down with other Huntington wines or local craft beers from the Garden Bar under the gum trees. huntingtonestate.com.au

Stop by sleek Gooree Park Cellar Door and Pantry in the restored CWA hall in the heart of Mudgee. Sample their cabernets and semillons, and pick up some well-priced wagyu beef and pesticidefree farm produce, or visit the winery and thoroughbred horse stud. gooreepark.com

Enjoy sunset over the vineyards, while sampling some of Moothi Estate’s well-priced wines, cocktails and share plates. You might even catch kangaroos hopping through the vines. moothiestate.com.au

First Ridge specialises in premium Italian varietals. You can taste them at the innovative cellar door fashioned from two shipping containers, perched on a hill overlooking the vineyard. Their vermentino is a must-try. firstridge.com.au

On Henry Lawson Drive, enjoy three gourmet experiences in one place: organic Spanish wines at Vinifera (viniferawines. com.au); gins, vodkas, rum and liqueurs made with local botanicals at Baker Williams (bakerwilliams.com.au); and local goodies from Mudgee Hampers (mudgeehampers.com.au).

If you're doing the drive back to Sydney, go via Rylstone to visit Australia’s most awarded olive oil producer, Rylstone Olive Press, for a tour and tasting (rylstoneolivepress.com.au). Also check out De Beaurepaire Wines, which grows a range of varieties on its limestone-rich sandy loam soils. Don’t miss the multi-award-winning 2016 Coeur d’Or Botrytis Semillon. debeaurepairewines.com

PLACES TO EAT

One of Mudgee’s best dining experiences is found at the rusticchic, corrugated-iron Pipeclay Pumphouse at Robert Stein.

Savour an inspired paddock-to-plate degustation menu, including charcuterie from their own free-range Berkshire pigs, ash-crusted beef fillet from their Angus cattle, and white chocolate mousse with strawberry and rose. pipeclaypumphouse.com.au

Keep cool in the vine-shaded courtyard of Alby and Esters to savour the coffee, perhaps with local mushrooms cooked in chilli, fennel and garlic, served with a free-range poached egg on sourdough. On Friday and Saturday evenings, choose from cocktails and a carefully curated selection of local wines, including interesting styles from smaller wineries, and flavourful share platters. albyandesthers.com.au

Mudgee Brewing Company is in a spacious red-brick former wool shed with polished concrete floors and gleaming copper brewing equipment. Here you can sample a range of their beers, including Mudgee Pale Ale and Mudgee Mud, an Imperial stout, as well as seasonal beers such as Citra IPA and Smokey Red. There’s great coffee from local Fish River Roasters, snacks such as pork crackle and hearty dishes, and live music three nights a week. mudgeebrewing.com.au

Relax at Eltons Eating and Drinking in a former pharmacy, with a pressed-tin ceiling and art nouveau stained-glass windows. The vibe is inclusive and artsy, complete with a whimsical mural depicting owners Brent and Dani Rowlands with their family and friends on Mudgee’s main street. Expect craft beers on tap,

a Mudgee-centric wine list and excellent share plates, including inventive tacos, popcorn pork belly, and salt and pepper spiced squid. They do a great Sunday brunch too. eltons.com.au

For a delicious dose of country-retro style, go for a toasted sandwich, freshly baked cake and cup of tea in the shady courtyard at Artisan on Lewis. Here you can check out the work of local artisans in wood, ceramics, textiles and metal. artisanonlewis.business.site

Settle in for the evening at Roth’s, Australia’s oldest continuously operating wine bar, with its buzzy front bar and large informal dining area out the back. Choose from more than 100 local wines to enjoy with wood-fired pizza. They have live music on Friday and Saturday nights. rothswinebar.com.au

PLACES TO STAY

On almost five acres of gardens along the Cudgegong River, Evanslea Luxury Boutique Accommodation is just a few minutes’ drive from Mudgee’s main street. There are four open-plan cottages with full kitchens, spa baths, decks and barbecues. There is also a pool and tennis court. evanslea.com.au

The renovated two-storey Cobb and Co Court Hotel in the centre of town combines a sense of its past as a stagecoach inn with all the comforts of a contemporary boutique hotel. cobbandcocourt.com.au

For a cottage in the heart of town, The Tannery has retained much of its charm, believed to date back to the 1850s. Complete with contemporary appointments, it is ideal for one or two couples seeking an escape. thetannerymudgee.com.au

This page (top to bottom): Lowe Wines cellar door; Robert Stein vineyard; the terrace at The Cellar by Gilbert. Facing page: The historic charm of Mudgee’s town centre.

This page (clockwise from top left): First Ridge’s cellar door is fashioned from two shipping containers; rustic charm at Huntington Estate; the sleek tasting room at Logan Wines; sunset over the vineyards at Moothi Estate; the thoroughbred horse stud at Gooree Park.

This page (clockwise from top left): Pipeclay Pumphouse is one of Mudgee’s best dining experiences; on tap at Mudgee Brewing; the former wool shed at Mudgee Brewing; the Oatley family’s atmospheric Craigmoor Wines; live music at Roth’s; Roth’s is Australia’s oldest continuously operating wine bar.