2018 Domaine Naturaliste Floris Chardonnay, $30
This combination of potato, leek and blue cheese can be enhanced by fine Margaret River chardonnay. The flavour richness, texture and natural succulence of the Floris Chardonnay from the cool south of Margaret River is a great partner to the generous personality of this winter favourite.
I THINK of Marlborough, I think sauvignon blanc. The names synonymous with the variety’s global success come to mind as well, such as Oyster Bay and Giesen (roughly 7000 bottles of Giesen Sauvignon Blanc are sold in Australia every day). But I also think of the beautiful South Island of New Zealand, with its vine-swept landscapes, snow-capped peaks and crystal-clear waters, housing some of the most picturesque wine regions on the planet. It offers opportunities for adventure, too, thanks to a backyard ideal for hiking, biking, kayaking and more. The start of my recent visit to Blenheim, the gateway town to Marlborough and a popular basecamp, kicked off with the best of the outdoors and wine. What was posed as a casual post-flight cycle – “nothing too strenuous” – turned out to be a breathtaking but gravelly and twisting tour. Yealands Estate’s rolling White Road encompasses some steep climbs and one particularly daunting descent that saw my bike fly unsteadily along at a speed of around 50 kilometres an hour. It also features friendly chickens, unreal views of the ocean and mountains, and even classical music (I’m told it not only makes for happy vines but also larger eggs from the chicken coop closest to the speakers). Despite a few close calls, incredibly, I came away from the ride invigorated and unscathed. If physical exertion is not for you, it’s possible to drive this 7.5-kilometre track around the aptly named Seaview Road. It’s well worth doing one way or another because this big, beautiful, eco-friendly vineyard has a vista that’s hard to beat. And as you look out across the aqua waters of the Cook Strait, it’s easy to understand why this pristine environment is so treasured for wine.
SUBREGIONS AND STYLES
Marlborough is New Zealand’s largest wine-producing region, home to nearly three-quarters of the country’s vineyards. By the numbers, sauvignon blanc is still far and away the most significant variety for the region and nation, accounting for the majority of production. Despite what you might think about Marlborough sauvignon blanc, it’s not homogenous. If you’re not a fan of the more pungent, fruit-driven styles, you’ll find some are lean and citrusy, and others intriguingly savoury. According to Natalie Christensen, chief winemaker at Yealands Estate, diverse expressions come by way of site and season in this sprawling region. “There are two main valleys in Marlborough – the Awatere Valley and the Wairau Valley,” she explains. “The Awatere Valley is a bit cooler and drier, and its sauvignon blanc styles – especially where we are at Seaview – are herbal, mineral and textural, and with a salinity to them. In contrast, the Wairau Valley provides more of that gooseberry, tropical spectrum. There’s also the upper Wairau and lower Wairau, with the lower having a lot of deep, fertile silt, and its sauvignon blanc showing grapefruit and blackcurrant-leaf characters.”
The region’s varied terrain is a factor in creating classic styles of sauvignon blanc with subtle nuances. But you can also find more intentionally alternative expressions, with winemaking approaches such as wild ferments, lees work, and oak ageing adding a completely different look and feel to this usually fresh and fruity wine. One example is Yealands Estate’s experimental label State of Flux, which includes a concrete-egg fermented sauvignon blanc and a carbonic pinot noir. We try these wines over lunch after the bike ride – they’re bright, refreshing and a natural fit with the food.