1980 Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay Clos des Chenes Premier Cru

As part of my prize as Apprentice Chef of the Year, I travelled to the

1984 Frankfurt Culinary Olympics with the Australian team. After that, thanks to an introduction from Moss Wood’s Bill Pannell, I stayed with

[wine negociants] Becky and Paul Wasserman at their farmhouse near Beaune. I cooked a rustic lamb dish for the family, we tasted wines from along the Cote de Beaune – each one placed on a large map of the region – and Paul took us for a drive visiting each of the vineyards. I couldn’t believe the difference in flavour and character of each wine, even though many sites were only a few hundred metres apart. That was my first lesson in terroir and it’s why I opened Must.