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Thanks to Corryton

Burge Wines, which was shortlisted for the Halliday Best New Winery last year, you could win two bottles of each of the winery’s Eden Valley Riesling, Shiraz and Brigadier Cabernet Sauvignon – a 95-point Halliday-rated wine. The pack is valued at $202.

For all details, visit corrytonburge.com

CONGRATULATIONS DANIEL

A dozen bottles of Shut the Gate Fiano are on their way to you. I’ve been looking at the 2021 Royal Adelaide Wine Show results as a guide to what the experts consider a top wine. In the judges’ comments, I noticed the wines scoring the highest had ‘freshness’, applying to both whites and even older reds. Aged rieslings got a lower score and even many reds, some as recent as 2018, were considered to be ‘tired’. Can older wines still be considered fresh or does ageing negate this and make them less attractive to wine judges? Why is freshness so important?

ROSS ANGEL

You deserve a gold medal for going to such lengths. Since you were diligent, I went online to check the results and read through the comments. For those unfamiliar with the show system, while individual wines are listed, the summary is written by the panel chair and reflects the entire class. For example, Class 28, cabernet sauvignon 2016 vintage or older was not an enjoyable one to judge, given just one gold was awarded and the statement: “A challenge to find the highlights… too many wines reductive or extractive, lacking freshness and refinement.”

As a seasoned judge, I agree freshness is important because mostly the wines will be young, as in current vintage. And just because a wine is older, doesn’t mean it should be moribund. However, 2016 cabernet is not old in my books – it’s still in its infancy. Such wines should be fresh, alive and vibrant, which is not the same as being full of upfront fruit flavour. In the riesling class you mention, the oldest wines listed came from 2013, and while I would expect some tertiary characters to be showing, the issue was the older wines were appearing dry and tired. Again, on paper, they shouldn’t, and there should be an element of freshness or signs of life. I could write so much more about this, but the most important part is if there’s a wine you really like that didn’t score well – and there could be many reasons for that – trust your own palate. If you are scouring the results for some top wines, you will find them.

................. What is your view on ‘seasoning’ a wine glass? I think the practice is useful and overlooked, but my fiancée thinks it’s wasteful and pretentious.

DANIEL FAWCETT

Ah, this brings back fond memories. The only time I have been aware of someone else seasoning glasses is when I’ve visited producers in Italy, especially Piedmont. They follow the ritual of pouring some Barolo or Barbaresco into a glass, swirling it around to coat the inside, and then tipping it into another glass to do the same in preparation for tasting the wine. The small amount of wine used is then discarded.

It’s a bit mesmerising, and I salivated on several occasions. Talk about being primed. The reason it’s done is to remove any unwelcome smells or dust from the glass. However, in most situations, it’s probably not necessary. Restaurants with dedicated sommeliers are usually meticulous about their sparkling-clean glassware. However, I always sniff my glass, no matter where I am; it’s automatic. Maybe I am a tosser after all. I have a wood sideboard where most of my silly amount of glassware is housed and it imparts a strong aroma requiring airing the glasses and seasoning. Like you, I find the practice useful and effective. However, I don’t think I should come between you and your fiancée. If she thinks it’s wasteful, maybe you’re pouring too much in the glass. As for pretentious, well it might be if you primed your glass at your mate’s barbecue, but anywhere else, tell her you’re being particular – not pretentious. Or a tosser. I’ve learned to live with all that: none has complained about the wine I then offer.

................. Are younger rieslings better than older rieslings?

SALLY BOWEN

No, they are different. In Australia, rieslings are released quite soon after bottling, more a commercial decision than anything else. For example, with the excellent 2021 vintage, such babes started to appear on bottle shop shelves from around July. Often, they need more time in bottle to chill out, yet many are so good by the time summer comes knocking. I love those young, energetic wines, buoyant with refreshing acidity. I also love aged rieslings, which are completely different: it’s all about alchemy as they morph into a world of complexity and ensuing depth of flavour. The best will reveal some toastiness, perhaps butter toast with lime marmalade flavours and texture, but still with a fine line of acidity holding everything together. The variety’s ability to be fabulous young and yet age so well are two reasons why it’s such a noble grape.

................. If you drink a glass of wine a day, will you live to be 109?

ALLANA POLUS

I’ll let you know when I get there.