★ RIESLING
2021 Clos Clare Watervale Riesling, Clare Valley
From 51yo dry-grown vines, hand picked and whole-bunch pressed. This is very smart. It is mineral, tightly coiled, powerful and sleek, all at once. The fruit is embedded in the acid; the acid likewise is wrapped in a sheath of talcy phenolics. Very fine...I love the spool of flavour through the finish. Pristine. Stonking value for money. EL 12% alc.
RRP $32 / Drink 2031 / Clos Clare ★★★★☆ closclare.com.au
2021 Fallen Giants Riesling, Grampians
Sweet herbal notes and lifted florals introduce a steely, lemon, lime-cordial and whitenectarine-perfumed riesling that shows the full appeal of the Grampians' most underrated white grape. Great focus and drive, not to mention longevity, thanks to brisk acidity. JP 12.5% alc.
RRP $30 / Drink 2028 / Fallen Giants ★★★★★ fallengiants.com.au
2021 Nick O'Leary Wines White Rocks Riesling, Canberra District
O’Leary’s 3 rieslings are basically made the same, it’s where the fruit is sourced that makes the big difference. This from the Westering vineyard, one of the oldest riesling sites in the Canberra District, nudging 50 years. The wine’s a babe in terms of youth and its charm. Grapefruit and lime, zest and pith, minerally and tight, with ultra-refreshing acidity and a finish that lingers long after the sip has gone. JF 12% alc.
RRP $38 / Drink 2035 / Nick O'Leary Wines ★★★★★ nickolearywines.com.au
2012 Pewsey Vale Vineyard 10 Years Cellar Aged The Contours Museum Reserve Single Vineyard Estate Riesling, Eden Valley
This contour-planted (1965) block of riesling, high in the Eden Valley has been the source of many a riesling epiphany. Pale to mid straw in the glass, with aromas of Bickford's lime, grapefruit pith, lemon zest. There's a complex array of underlying characters: preserved lemon, kaffir lime, beeswax, dried honey, lemon curd, crushed quartz, sage, soft spice, pressed flowers and almond paste. Toasty, long of finish and still boasting plenty of zesty drive, detail and clarity, it's just wonderful drinking. DB 12.5% alc.
RRP $51 / Drink 2028 / Pewsey Vale Vineyard ★★★★☆ pewseyvale.com
2021 Pooley Wines Margaret Pooley Tribute Riesling, Tasmania
My Tasmanian riesling of the year last year was no one-hit wonder, backing it up with another vintage of profound purity and enduring longevity. The micro-engineering at play here is something to behold, with the puncheon fermentation and dribble of residual creating no distraction whatsoever, rather serving to launch its fruit to dramatic lengths and breathtaking heights. A soaring tribute to the endurance of Tasmanian riesling. TS 12.8% alc.
RRP $80 / Drink 2046 / Pooley Wines ★★★★★ pooleywines.com.au
2017 Tasmanian Vintners Artisan Riesling, Tasmania
Pale quartz green. Just delicious. While still in its infancy, its long-life-giving acidity is now cocooned by a fine-spun shroud of lime, lemon and apple fruit, the balance impeccable, the length ditto. JH 12.5% alc.
RRP $40 / Drink 2027 / Tasmanian Vintners ★★★★★ tasvintners.wine
2021 Vignerons Schmölzer & Brown Obstgarten T Riesling, King Valley
T stands for trocken, meaning dry in the German riesling classification. With 6–8g/L residual sugar, this is not necessarily as dry as Australians would consider it, but the high acidity is definitely softened and the result is quite a stunning display of precision with clear, bright lemon zest, grapefruit, green apple and white flowers with sherbety, bright acidity. JP 11.5% alc. RRP $35 / Drink 2032 /
Vignerons Schmölzer & Brown Valley ★★★★☆ vsandb.com.au