★ CHARDONNAY
2020 Cherubino Cherubino Chardonnay, Margaret River
This wine amassed a swag of trophies at shows in 2021 (8, in total) and was made in such tiny quantities, that sales are now limited to a bottle a customer. If you can still get it. Distinctive for its custard powder nose, this is an opulent, luxurious chardonnay of voluminous depth and power. Salted peach, kiwi-fruit acidity and long, undulating layers of flavour. Immediately, and obviously, a goldpointed wine in the chardonnay class I judged at Margaret River Wine Show '21. One for the ages. EL 13.5% alc.
RRP $95 / Drink 2037 / Cherubino ★★★★★ larrycherubino.com
2020 Deep Woods Estate Reserve Chardonnay, Margaret River
To say the wine is elegant does it no justice. It's way more than that; line, length and balance likewise. This is a barrel-by-barrel selection from a large number, ex a specific vineyard source. White peach and pink grapefruit play off against each other, oak a means to an end. JH 13% alc.
RRP $65 / Drink 2042 / Deep Woods Estate ★★★★★ deepwoods.wine
2020 Driftwood Estate Single Site Chardonnay, Margaret River
Pure, fine, lingering and spicy. The fruit is woven into the very fabric of the wine, threaded in place by fine strands of briny acidity that is pronounced, but sings, rather than intrudes. The spicy, toasty oak holds it together and is perfectly matched to the fruit. Succulent and streamlined. Several previous vintages have been as impressive. Get on board. EL 13% alc.
RRP $70 / Drink 2037 / Driftwood Estate ★★★★☆s driftwoodwines.com.au
2019 Giaconda Estate Vineyard Chardonnay, Beechworth
The secret – if there is one – to Giaconda chardonnay is the depth of complexity achieved. It is a thing of wonder to get lost in, as you wander through layer upon layer of stone fruits, citrus and grilled nuts, almond cream, spice and then gently embedded oak. Luscious. Intriguing. Stylish. JP13.5% alc.
RRP $129 / Drink 2036 / Giaconda ★★★★★ giaconda.com.au
2021 Gundog Estate Burton McMahon George's Vineyard Chardonnay, Yarra Valley
A pale but bright green gold. With its aromas of mandarin, orange peel, freshly cut pear, grilled nuts and a little matchstick, this is all about restraint. Tightly wound on the palate, this has terrific line and length (think of Glen McGrath at his prime) and finishes with a pithy, subtle, lemon oil nuance. This is built for the cellar and I can see this very good wine opening up and becoming even more complex in another year or two. PR 13% alc.
RRP $40 / Drink 2028 / Gundog Estate ★★★★★ gundogestate.com.au
2020 Kooyong Farrago Single Block Chardonnay, Mornington Peninsula
Both single-vineyard chardonnays are on song, as Farrago opens up to a reveal layers of flavour from stone fruit, citrus to creamy lees with tight yet refreshing acidity reining everything in. It’s luscious without being heavy, with plenty of energy and drive. This is a touch racier than Faultline, yet both are moreish and satisfying. JF 13.5% alc.
RRP $60 / Drink 2030 / Kooyong ★★★★☆ kooyongwines.com.au
2019 Lethbridge Wines Allegra Chardonnay, Geelong
A difficult vintage but Allegra, which is sourced from the oldest chardonnay vineyard in Geelong at Mt Duneed, shines. A tightly coiled, thrilling chardonnay. White peach, nectarine, flinty grapefruit, lemon curd and nougatine, nutty oak, not to forget the herbs (lemon thyme) and spice, is all here. Length and fine acid drive are impressive. A quiet power lives here. JP 13.7% alc.
RRP $110 / Drink 2027 / Lethbridge Wines ★★★★★ lethbridgewines.com
2021 Lightfoot Wines Myrtle Point Vineyard Chardonnay, Gippsland
Such an enjoyable, easy-to-drink wine but with plenty of definition and complexity. Lemony freshness infuses white nectarine and a touch of cedary spice from the oak – 10 months in a mix of barrel sizes (15% new) and perfectly integrated. It feels light and breezy across the palate, then some creamy lees kicks in to bolster it out and lively acidity ensuring the finish lingers. JF 12.5% alc.
RRP $30 / Drink 2029 / Lightfoot Wines ★★★★★ lightfootwines.com
2021 Medhurst Estate Vineyard Chardonnay, Yarra Valley
A very bright green gold. Beautifully crafted, you'll find white nectarines, grapefruit pith, orange blossom, jasmine, subtle peony and very subtle struck match. An essay in chardonnay purity, this taut, powerful and beautifully balanced wine tapers into a long, satisfying and saline finish. PR 13.1% alc.
RRP $44 / Drink 2028 / Medhurst ★★★★★ medhurstwines.com.au
2012 Mordrelle Wines Blanc de Blanc Late Disgorged Chardonnay, Adelaide Hills
So fresh! An aged blanc de blancs, 8 years on lees, disgorged on demand and given a crown seal which goes a long way to explaining the vibrancy and complexity to be found in this sparkling. White flowers, lemon, grapefruit and oyster-shell aromas. Bright acidity, intense mousse, clean and brisk across the palate. It's all here. JP 12% alc.
RRP $100 / Drink 2022 / Mordrelle Wines ★★★★★ mordrellewines.com.au
2020 Nocturne Wines Tassell Park Vineyard Chardonnay, Margaret River
Hand picked, whole-bunch pressed directly to French oak, left on gross lees unsulphured until September. Toasted curry leaves, yellow peach, supported by clean and salty minerality (the white sand of the vineyard is powerfully suggestive) and layers upon layers of rippling flavour. You should always get to know a wine that you love over a number of days, and this will show you many sides of its beautiful face over the course of 3 or 4, if you can stretch it out that long. EL 13% alc.
RRP $55 / Drink 2037 / Nocturne Wines ★★★★★ nocturnewines.com.au
2019 Bannockburn Vineyards S.R.H., Geelong
Chardonnay from the Olive
Tree Hill vineyard; hand picked and wild fermented. A superbly balanced wine, the fruit foremost, effortlessly holding its graceful line and length, and perfect to drink tonight or in a decade. JH 13.8% alc. RRP $77 / Drink 2034 / Bannockburn Vineyards ★★★★★ bannockburnvineyards.com
2021 Oakridge Wines Vineyard Series Hazeldene Chardonnay, Yarra Valley
From chardonnay planted in 2013. Wholebunch pressed straight to puncheons (less than 20% new) followed by a natural-yeast fermentation and time on lees without stirring. A superb Hazeldene with white peach, wet stone, fresh mint, white flowers and a hint of macadamia nut. Pure fruited, concentrated and beautifully balanced, this will provide a lot of pleasure now and for years to come. PR 13.5% alc.
RRP $45 / Drink 2029 / Oakridge Wines ★★★★★ oakridgewines.com.au
2020 Robert Oatley Vineyards Robert Oatley The Pennant Chardonnay, Margaret River
This is rich, cushioned and opulent, with custard powder, yellow peach, Golden Delicious apples and shortcrust pastry. There is no way you could mistake this as being from anywhere other than Margs, such is the voluminous folds of flavour, in combination with briny, pink-grapefruit acidity. Very smart, and absolutely a style. EL 12.5% alc.
RRP $95 / Drink 2030 / Robert Oatley Vineyards ★★★★★ robertoatley.com.au craigmoor.com.au
2021 Serrat Chardonnay, Yarra Valley
100% Mendoza clone, whole-bunch pressed, natural-yeast ferment in 600L French oak, no mlf and 11 months on lees with minimal stirring. Matured in 600L French casks, 28% new. A very bright green gold. Restrained, with aromas of pink grapefruit, Beurre Bosc pears, jasmine and wet stone. Concentrated and intense but not remotely heavy, there's a steeliness here that's in total harmony with the fruit. Excellent now, this will only open up and become more complex over next 3–5 years, if not longer. PR 13.5% alc.
RRP $45 / Drink 2028 / Serrat ★★★★★ serrat.com.au
2020 Vasse Felix Heytesbury Chardonnay, Margaret River
In warmer vintages like 2020, the Heytesbury chardonnay has extension and flex on release, billowing with flavour and pleasure, with the oak seeming to be enveloped by it early on. So goes the story here: like the 2018 (on release) this is a scintillating show of powerful fruit, juicy mineral acidity and layers of crushed rocks, petrichore, nori, summer fig and salted yellow peaches. A superstar wine – it's closed now though: patience or a decant is recommended. EL 13.5% alc.
RRP $100 / Drink 2037 / Vasse Felix ★★★★★ vassefelix.com.au