Winemaker of the Year

GLENN GOODALL | XANADU WINES | MARGARET RIVER | WESTERN AUSTRALIA

GLENN GOODALL has always had a “keep it simple, stupid” approach to winemaking. “You can’t make diamonds out of brick,” he says. “If you get decent fruit, from there it’s pretty easy.” Originally from New Zealand, Glenn fell into wine during his first visit to Australia. He was 19 years old and looking for work to fund a surfing holiday he was on in Port Macquarie and found it in the vineyard at Cassegrain Wines.

“The minute I got into the winery, it just smelled good. I don’t know. It wasn’t familiar because I never grew up with wine at all, but it just felt right.”

After nine years at Cassegrain and vintages in Bordeaux, California, New Zealand and South Africa, plus a degree in winemaking from Adelaide University, Glenn joined Margaret River’s Xanadu in 1999 and has led the team as Senior Winemaker since the 2006 vintage.

Glenn believes that the vineyard is central to the success of the wine. “I really want the variety and the vineyard to be the loudest voice in the glass, not the winemaker,” he says.

“I place a lot more emphasis in maintaining the integrity of the fruit than in how it’s fermented or what yeast or oak is used. I want the wine to reflect the season and the vintage and the place – I don’t want to smear winemaking all over it.”

His “light touch” is a reason Xanadu was also nominated for Best Value Winery. “Pushing wines and trying to make them into something they’re not not only makes them more contrived, but it often costs more money as well,” says Glenn. Consistently good seasons in Margaret River alongside ancient soils, forest grove and free-draining Karri loams, and its maritime climate also play a part, he says.

Despite more than three decades in the wine industry, and the title of Winemaker of the Year, Glenn Goodall admits his style and practices are still evolving. “If you think you’re in a sweet spot and you rest on your laurels, soon someone will tap you on the shoulder and say, ‘excuse me, can I overtake?’

“There are so many people around Australia making great wine,” he adds, making specific mention of Margaret River neighbours, such as Cullen, Voyager, Vasse Felix and Cape Mentelle. “Ultimately, I think our wines will remain relevant if we focus on substance rather than style. Styles come and go, but substance sticks around forever.” Anna Webster

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