Souks, snakes and spices

Our odyssey began at Jemaa el-Fnaa, the 11th- century square in Marrakech’s Old City. Before entering the colourful chaos, I set stern ground rules: first, the kids were not allowed anywhere near the Barbary apes; second, we were to stick together at all times. We stepped into the throng of tourists and hawkers, and got lost in the marvellous medina.

The street theatre never stopped. Every which way you looked there were soothsayers and storytellers; food stalls searing pigeon, camel and snail; medicine men displaying cures and nostrums; acrobats and musicians entertaining onlookers; and bejewelled women adorning hands with henna. As if all that wasn’t