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time in the world – and looks me straight in the eye as I glide alongside, less than one metre away. I wonder what in the world he could be thinking as I stare – somewhat bewildered – into the unfathomable depths of his eyes. Eventually, shrugging me off with indifference, he steers himself in the opposite direction – but not before gracing me with a wink (I swear, it’s true!) as I hastily paddle to the surface out of breath.
The sound of the whale song
As of August 2016, visitors to Ningaloo can swim with humpback whales. The existing 11 whale shark operators in the area have been licensed to run the tours, extending the whale season into the humpback migration, in which as many as 30,000 humpbacks pass through from June to November. With a maximum of 10 people per tour, only five persons in the water at once and no swimming with mothers and calves, all tours wish to offer an eco-friendly, intimate experience – and I’m lucky enough to be one of the first few to trial this amazing encounter with Coral Bay Ecotours.
The next day I’m in the water, waiting in anticipation. We can’t see it yet, but we can hear it: the famous whale song. These ‘composers of the seas’ are known for their peculiar vocalisation and I am absolutely mesmerised. I stop kicking immediately and just drift along, listening to the soft and beautiful melody. For an animal so big, they approach like a ghost. Spotting them on the boat takes a keen eye, and in the ocean, it’s surprisingly even harder. They swoop on by, either unaware or uninterested by our presence and proximity. We are nothing but temporary spectators to their own grand plans.
For those interested in jumping in the water with these majestic mammals, just remember: the movements of the humpback whales, like all animals, are not guided by human expectations. Jumping in and out of the water throughout the day we often emerge wet and shaking our heads: “It was just too quick!”
On the journey back to the mainland we enjoy more gentle seas and stop for a relaxed snorkel through the reefs, spotting mahi-mahi, golden trevally, mud crab, dugongs... the list goes on. We even race a pod of dolphins for a good half-hour as they playfully disappear and reappear with dramatic flair at the boat’s hull, the kids screaming in delight. I sip at champagne as the sun sets, watching it all with a smile and thinking to myself: I have found where the wild things are. www.visitningaloo.com.au www.australiascoralcoast.com www.tourism.wa.gov.au
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