Eating like a local

On a different scale entirely, the hilltop city of Carcassonne has been trading since the sixth century BC. The fortified town is littered with photographic and gelato- eating opportunities. Cobbled streets wind their way through ancient walls, host to thousands of tourists all summer long. My family visit when the busloads have departed, to explore laneways and leafy beer gardens in the evening cool. Castelnaudary is all about the local dish, cassoulet, and we feel compelled to try it. Right on the port and with a canal boat for a kitchen is Brasserie la Cybele, serving the famous slow- cooked stodge. Comprising white beans, confit duck, pork sausage and thick gravy, to call this dish “hearty” would be an understatement. Our junior deckhands rave loudly about the duck and camembert burger.

Quaint historical towns aside, the view from the deck of the péniche is mostly made up of agricultural countryside and the produce sold at most of the local markets. Bright-red tomatoes, juicy peaches and stinky cheeses make their way back to the canal boat in gluttonous quantities.

Luckily, there are opportunities to burn off excess calories. When the canal was first built, small sailing vessels were towed by groups of men who walked the adjacent towpath. These days, visitors can ride bikes leisurely along these paths, and the towering plane trees provide welcome shade.

Locking up

Lock keepers still operate along the canal and quirky businesses occupy the historic houses. At the Peyruque Lock, look out for La Boutique de l’Ecluse. Frédérique, a typically elegant French lady, makes ceramic trinkets while her husband tends to the charming café.

The most unusual business is at Aiguille Lock. Bizarre sculptures of human and animal figures made of scrap metal and wood come to life as the visitor approaches. Some powered by wind, others connected to motion sensors, they pedal, run and wind the lock’s sluice gate open. Sculptor and lock keeper, Joël Barthes, is clearly enjoying his spare time.

At the final port, I decide that a trip on the Canal du Midi reminds me of a slow- cooked cassoulet: both require time and a slow pace, both are steeped in history and cultural traditions, and both are best enjoyed with family or friends – and a local red wine.

Information

au.france.fr

Getting there

Locaboat www.locaboat.com Le Boat www.leboat.com.au

Eat

L’ile aux Oiseaux, Port de Bram lileauxoiseaux.fr Brasserie la Cybele, Castelnaudary saintroch11.com/ brasserie.html La Boutique de l’Ecluse de la Peyruque www.canalmidi.com/peyruque.html