summer in the city
The best share plates in Sydney have a distinctly Japanese flavour and now is the time to try
Sydney’s Cho Cho San is a restaurant inspired by Tokyo drinking culture, so you can be absolutely certain it has all the ingredients for a great night out. Located in Potts Point (on a ridge above the bright lights of the CBD), it specialises in a food concept called izakaya, which has many different interpretations but loosely translates to ‘a bar serving shared plates with saké’. In Japan, an izakaya is a place for after-work drinking, but in Sydney that can also mean a cold beer or cocktail.
The owners of Cho Cho San are Sam Christie and his business partner Jonathan Barthelmess, and both have form in developing hit restaurants. Their current portfolio also includes The Apollo in Sydney and Greca in Brisbane, which are both Greek. Knowing what works is an instinct flexed over years of working in the industry. The consistent factor across all their venues is an interesting drinking culture, with cocktails playing a big part.
“Food and booze work so well together,” says Sam. “The Japanese have made dining and drinking an artform, and we’ve tried to channel that here at Cho Cho San.”
When the partners talked about launching their izakaya restaurant in 2014, they hired designer George Livissianis – the creative force behind The Apollo’s chic interior – to realise it. He came up with a pared-back, contemporary dining room offset by a working collection of 200+ saké bottles artfully arranged along the extended bar. The beautiful stone slab that is the central dining zone draws guests keen to take in the theatre of cocktail-making.
Meanwhile, Cho Cho San’s food is straight-up delicious.
These are classic Japanese dishes with a twist, offering the kind of satisfaction on a plate that works equally well for a dinner à deux or lively lunch. “We respect Japanese tradition while creatiing unique dishes using only the best Japanese and Australian ingredients, says head chef Max Smith, who is originally from Preston in northern England. “I love living in Sydney,” he adds, “because there are so many fun, casual restaurants and bars with their own unique character. The produce is very fresh here and the people are friendly. There is so much to see and learn.”
Smith’s favourite dish is Tonkatsu (deep-fried pork cutlet) and he suggests plenty of beer to go with it, especially if you’re there with a crowd. “Cho Cho San has such a vibrant atmosphere for friends meeting up after work,” he says. “We have a good amount of Japanese whiskys and sakés so you can drink and snack or have a full meal, depending on the occasion.” Cho Cho San is at 73 Macleay Street, Potts Point; chochosan.com.au
THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Minimal place settings work with the spare interior. Some of Cho Cho San’s extensive saké selection sits above the bar. Tonkatsu & Japanese curry sauce. Window seats on Macleay Street. The small but scrumptious menu. An extended dining slab down the middle of the restaurant is perfect for sharing dishes. Butterfly art on display. Sous chef Erik Ortolani cooking edamame. OPPOSITE PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Tactile perforated-wood panelling keeps the interior fresh and light. Potato salad with tempura egg. More saké to choose from. Owner Sam Christie and chef Max Smith prepare for service. Yummy Wagyu steak & teryaki sauce.
“Beers, cocktails, wine, saké and whisky all seem to pair perfectly with our cuisine, depending on the mood you’re in” SAM CHRISTIE, OWNER