BLOCK BOOK
Don’t leave your quilt blocks to languish in the back of a drawer somewhere – keep them super safe with Susan Standen’s cute QST folder.
Don’t leave your quilt blocks to languish in the back of a drawer – keep them super safe with Susan Standen’s cute QST folder.
NOTES
Q Seam allowances are ¼in, unless stated otherwise. Q HST = half-square triangle. Q QST = quarter-square triangle. Q WOF = width of fabric.
CUTTING OUT
YOU CAN DOWNLOAD THE EXTRA BLOCK PATTERNS SHOWN ON PAGE 51 FROM THE LOVE PATCHWORK & QUILTING BLOG. MAKE IN BLUE AND GREY TONES FOR COOL CONTRAST.
1 From both Fabric A and Fabric B cut two (2) 4in squares.
2 From both Fabric C and Fabric D cut four (4) 3½in squares.
3 From Fabric E cut eight (8) 3½in squares. 4 From background fabric cut:
Q Two (2) 3in squares. Q Sixteen (16) 3½in squares.
Q Twelve (12) 4in squares. Q Four (4) 1¼in x 13in strips. Q Two (2) 1¼in x 14½in strips. Q One (1) 2½in x 14½in strip. You will also need enough 2½in strips combined to provide 95in of binding (about three WOF strips). 5 From interfacing cut two (2) 14½in x 14in pieces.
MAKE THE HSTS AND QSTS
6 Take all your 4in squares and pair them up RST. You need to have two (2) Fabric A/background pairs, two (2) Fabric B/ background pairs and four (4) background fabric pairs. Mark a diagonal line on the back of one fabric of each pair and make HSTs by sewing ¼in seams on either side of that line and then cutting down the drawn line once sewn. Press your seams to one side. 7 On each of the background fabric only HSTs draw a diagonal line on the back going to the opposite corners of the original seam (shown in red in Fig 1). Pair these HSTs with the HSTs that have a feature fabric, laying them together so that the seams nest together tidily, and sew a seam ¼in to either side of the drawn line once again. When pressing the seams they should nest together with minimal bulk. Trim each QST to 3 inches square, taking care to keep your points in each corner. 8 Pair each Fabric C, D and E square with a background square. Mark a diagonal line on the back of each low volume fabric and pair with a feature fabric, RST. Sew a seam ¼in either side of the drawn line, cut along the drawn line and press open. Trim each HST to 3in square, taking care to keep your points in the corners.
ASSEMBLE THE FOLDER
9 Join your HSTs in sets of four and your QSTs in sets of two ( Fig 2). You will have eight of each unit. Assemble two blocks from these units, joining the units into three rows with a 3in background square in the
centre ( Fig 3). Then sew the rows together to complete the block.
10 Sew a 1¼in x 13in strip to opposite sides of each block. Sew a 1¼in x 14½in strip to one of the remaining sides of each block. Use the remaining 2¼in x 14½in strip to attach the two blocks together on the remaining unsashed sides ( Fig 4). 11 Place one piece of fusible interfacing on the reverse of your pieced folder, aligning the raw edges at the top, bottom and left side. Fuse in place. Repeat on the right hand side of the folder. There will be a small gap between the two pieces of interfacing where there is just sashing. This is to aid in the
folding of the cover.
QUILTING AND FINISHING
12 Baste your piece of batting to the fusible interfacing. Due to the heavy interfacing spray basting is the ideal method of basting in this case. Quilt the layers together lightly. When moving the folder cover through your machine’s throat space gently roll the folder to get it through. Try not to bend it. Trim any excess batting once you have finished quilting.
13 Sew your binding strips into one long length. Press in half along the length, wrong sides together. Bind the folder as you would a quilt. 14 Fold the project in half. Sew a seam a ¼in from the edge along the folded side, reinforcing your stitching on either end to give it strength.