DRAWSTRING BAG
YOU WILL NEED Print fabric (background): ¼yd Fabric scraps: twelve (12) scraps of 4in–7in square Casing fabric: one (1) fat eighth Lining fabric: ¼yd Batting: 21in x 12½in Rope: 1½yds Embroidery thread FINISHED SIZE 8in wide x 9in high x 3in deep approx NOTES Seam allowances are ¼in, unless otherwise noted. RST = right sides together. WST = wrong sides together. FABRICS USED Starry Seashell from the Print Shop collection and Add It Up Bone from the Paper Bandana collection, both by Alexia Marcelle Abegg for Cotton+Steel. Sprinkle Petal from the Cotton+Steel Basics collection by Cotton+Steel. Ballerina and Curry from the Kona Cotton Solids collection by Robert Kaufman. CUTTING OUT From the background print fabric cut two (2) 10in x 12in rectangles. From the fabric scraps cut:
Two (2) 7in squares. Four (4) 5½in squares. Two (2) 5in squares. Two (2) 4½in squares. Two (2) 4in squares. From the casing fabric cut two (2) 8½in x 2½in rectangles. From the lining fabric cut two (2) 8½in x 10½in rectangles. From the batting cut two (2) 10½in x 12½in rectangles.
THIS BAG IS THE PERFECT WAY TO FIND YOUR OWN QUILTY STYLE! HAVE FUN PLANNING YOUR DESIGN
PIECING THE IMPROV PANELS Take one of the 10in x 12in background rectangles and one of the larger scrap fabric squares. With right side up, place them on a cutting mat, with the scrap fabric square on top of the bottom right-hand corner of the background rectangle. The right-hand and bottom edges of the square should be overhanging by approx ½in. Use a rotary cutter to cut a freehand curve (Fig A). Remove the scrap fabric above the curve and the background fabric below the curve. Mark both fabric pieces at the end of the curve as shown (Fig B). Flip the scrap fabric piece over so that it is RST with the background – the background should be on the bottom and the scrap piece on the top. Align the marks at one end (Fig C). With the edges of the fabric lined up, start sewing on the mark using a ¼in seam allowance, backstitching to secure the seam. Use one hand to hold and adjust the top fabric and the other hand to guide the bottom fabric along the edge of your presser foot, so that both fabrics align just in front of your foot (Fig D). Sewing slowly and aligning the fabrics continuously in front of your presser foot as you go, continue to sew around the curve. Make sure not to stretch your fabrics as you ease them together, and backstitch at the end to secure. Press the seam allowance to one side to complete the seam (Fig E). Repeat steps 6–10 with one of the smaller scrap fabric squares, then repeat with one of the smallest scrap fabric squares to add a second and third curved piece to your unit (Fig F). Rotate the improv panel and repeat steps 6–11 to create three curves in the opposite corner of the background rectangle (Fig G). Trim the unit to 8½in x 10½in to complete the improv panel (Fig H). Sew a few stitches over each seam at the edges, making sure to stay within the seam allowance, to prevent them from coming undone (Fig I). Repeat steps 6–14 to make a second improv panel.
QUILTING THE PANELS Take one batting rectangle and place one of the improv panels centrally and right side up on top – there should be approx 1in of excess batting all round (Fig J). Embroider your panel as desired – Laura recommends doing this by hand using an embroidery needle. Laura embroidered crosses of different sizes on different sections of fabric using a contrasting thread (Fig K). Try not to embroider the bottom 2in square in the bottom corners as they will be boxed out in the finished bag. Baste all around the edges of the quilted panel using a in seam allowance,using a longer stitch length than usual. Trim the excess batting on each side (Fig L). Repeat steps 16–18 to quilt the second improv panel. Take one of the 8½in x 2½in casing rectangles. At one short end, fold over approx ¼in to the wrong side and press well. Fold over again by another approx ¼in and press well. Secure the folds by topstitching along the edge using a 1/8in seam allowance (Fig M). Repeat at the other short end. WST, fold the casing rectangle in half lengthwise and press well (Fig N). The casing should now measure 7½in x 1¼in. Repeat steps 20–21 with the remaining casing rectangle. Place one of the improv panels right side up, then place a folded casing on top centrally along the top edge and matching up all the raw edges. You should have approx ½in excess panel at each end. Clip in place (Fig O). Baste in place with a
seam allowance and using a longer stitch length than usual. Take one 8½in x 10½in lining rectangle and place it RST with the improv panel, sandwiching the casing between them. Clip in place (Fig P).
Sew along the top edge using a ¼in seam allowance, making sure to sew through all the clipped layers. Open out the pieces and press the lining. Repeat steps 23–25 with the other improv panel, the casing and the remaining lining rectangle. With both improv panel/lining pieces opened out, place them RST. Match up all the raw edges and make sure that the top edge seams (which will be in the centre when opened out) are aligned. Clip to secure. Draw a 1½in square in the bottom corners of the improv panels and the lining panels and mark an opening of approx 3in in the centre of the bottom of the lining (Fig Q). Sew the layers together around the edges using a ¼in seam allowance, making sure not to sew along the opening in the bottom of the lining or around the drawn corners. Secure all the seams by backstitching a few times. Clip the four corners (Fig R). Refold one corner so that the raw edges and seams match up (Fig S). The more accurate the side and bottom seams are nestled together, the more accurate your corners will be. Pin or clip in place and then sew together along the open edge using a ¼in seam allowance, making sure to catch all the layers of the fabric in the seam (Fig T). Repeat step 30 to box out the remaining corners. FINISHING THE BAG Turn the bag right side out through the gap in the bottom of the lining. Push out all the corners, then sew the gap closed using a seam allowance. Push the lining down into the bag. Take the rope and cut it into two (2) equal lengths. Take one of the lengths of rope and, starting on one side of the bag, thread it through the front casing, around the gap on the opposite side of the bag and then through the back casing. Laura recommends inserting a safety pin into one end of the rope to help to pull it through the casing. Both ends will now be on the same side of the bag. Knot the ends to secure. Repeat step 34 with the remaining length of rope on the opposite side of the bag, this time with the ends coming out on the other side, to finish the bag.