USE A MIX OF LOW VOLUME AND BRIGHTLY COLOURED PRINTS FOR THE FULL EFFECT
YOU WILL NEED
■ White fabric: 1¾yds
■ Eleven (11) solid fat quarters
■ Forty five (45) low volume
5in squares
■ Forty five (45) print 5in squares
■ Binding fabric: ½yd
■ Batting: 68in x 80in
■ Backing fabric: 4yds
FINISHED SIZE
■ 60in x 72in
NOTES
■ Seam allowances are ¼in, unless
otherwise noted.
■ Press seams open throughout.
■ RST = right sides together.
■ WOF = width of fabric.
■ HST = Half-square Triangle.
■ Allison used three Moda Charm Packs to make both projects, using the 5in squares for all print and low volumes and dividing into three categories by value.
■ Quilted by Sterling Labosky of Sterling
Quilt Co. (sterlingquiltcompany.etsy.com)
FABRICS USED
■ Prints and low volumes are from the Flower Mill, Strawberry Jam and Sunnyside Up charm packs by Corey Yoder for Moda.
■ Solid fabrics are Kona Cotton Solids by Robert Kaufman in Gumdrop, Carnation, Flesh, Salmon, Peach, Melon, Lemon, Cactus, Peapod, Aruba and Candy Green.
■ Visit gathered.how/lovequiltingmag for alternative Moda Bella Solids and Art Gallery Fabrics Pure Elements.
■ White fabric is a Moda Bella Solid in PFD.
CUTTING OUT
1 From the white fabric cut:
■ Twelve (12) 5in x WOF. Subcut into ninety (90) 5in squares.
2 From four (4) of the solid fat quarters cut:
■ Twelve (12) 5in squares.
3 From seven (7) of the solid fat quarters cut:
■ Six (6) 5in squares.
4 From the binding fabric cut:
■ Seven (7) 2½in x WOF.
PIECING THE FIRST TWO BLOCKS
5 Gather the following set of squares to make the first two blocks:
■ Six (6) solid 5in squares.
■ Six (6) white 5in squares.
■ Three (3) low volume 5in squares.
■ Three (3) print 5in squares.
6 Mark a diagonal line on the wrong side of one solid square (Fig A). Place RST with a low volume square. Sew ¼in from the line on either side (Fig B).
7 Cut along the marked line (Fig C). Press each HST unit open, pressing the seam towards the darker fabric. Trim each HST to 4½in square, making sure to align the 45-degree mark on your ruler with the seam line (Fig D).
8 Repeat steps 6–7 to make the following HST units:
■ Solid/low volume: six (6) HSTs.
■ Solid/white: six (6) HSTs.
■ Print/white: six (6) HSTs.
9 Split each variation of HST into piles of three (three solid/low volume, three solid/white and three print/white) for each block. Arrange each set into three rows of three as shown in Fig 1, with the solid/ white HSTs forming a diagonal across the centre. Press seams to opposite sides
between rows. Sew the rows together, pressing seams to one side (Fig E). This completes two blocks.
PIECING THE QUILT
10 Repeat steps 5–9 to make a total of thirty blocks.
11 Arrange the blocks in six rows of five blocks, referring to the photography for placement. Sew the blocks together in rows, pressing seams in alternating directions. Sew the rows together to complete the quilt top.
QUILTING AND FINISHING
12 Cut the backing fabric in half across the width. Remove the selvedges and sew the two pieces together using a in seam. Press the seam open.
13 Press the quilt top and backing well. Make a quilt sandwich by placing the backing fabric right side down, the batting on top, then place the quilt top centrally and right side up. Baste the layers together using your preferred method.
14 Quilt as desired. Sterling (sterlingquiltcompany.etsy.com) quilted edge to edge in “Baptist Clams” using a longarm quilting machine. Trim off the excess batting and backing fabric and square up the quilt.
15 Sew the binding strips together end-to-end with diagonal seams. Press the seams open. Fold in half lengthways, wrong sides together, and press.
16 Sew the binding to the right side of the quilt, creating a neat mitre at each corner. Fold the binding over to the back of the quilt and hand stitch in place around the edge to finish.