Mercury (Hobart) - Magazine

VIEW TO A QUEUE

- SEAGRASS LONG POINT 19 Beach Rd, Sandy Bay Open seven days. Breakfast 8.3011.30am; and lunch noon-4.30pm. No bookings are taken. 6295 5370

When Prossers on the Beach quietly slipped from the Hobart dining landscape, vacating the space it had occupied for many years, there was much conjecture over what would take its place. Some months after a refurbishm­ent, Seagrass Long Point opened just as quietly two months ago.

Fresh flowers are abundant in the large waterfront room with its vaguely nautical theme — and can even be bought from a designated floristry corner at the entrance. Access to the elevated cafe is through an outdoor staircase, and there is wheelchair access via a lift.

On our first visit on a glorious Saturday morning, we arrive to a room heaving with customers. It’s not entirely evident what the protocol is in terms of seating. We wait for a staff person to ask, but the two people on the floor are run off their feet and it’s a challenge to stop one, who breathless­ly tell us to take a table and then order at the bar.

We find a table and spend some time marvelling at the expansive view before my attention turns back to the room. I’m surprised to see only two floor staff despite every table being taken, and experience informs me to order promptly. I join the queue at the counter and peruse the menus, which are written on large chalkboard­s. Some are available in printed form.

The breakfast menu features favourites such as eggs benedict (Eggs Benny) and the ubiquitous smashed avocado mixed with a few hipster motifs including chia seed parfait and a mixed grain bowl. Other appealing offers include a Belgian waffle with bitter chocolate and the Seagrass breakfast with bacon, eggs, hash, tomato and mushrooms.

The lunch menu has a mix of accessible choices running the gamut from flatbread with garlic, parsley and parmesan through to fish and chips with tartare.

There is a lamb taco and a Caesar salad available that will appeal to those seeking familiarit­y and dissuade those seeking more progressiv­e dishes.

Unfortunat­ely, on this occasion, our order is misplaced and we leave without eating. We are offered genuine apologies and resolve to give it another go.

Our subsequent visits on a weekday and weekend offer mixed experience­s. It isn’t anywhere near as hectic when we visit during the week and we receive our excellent coffees promptly and my breakfast choice arrives of housemade flatbread with fried onion, garlic, spring onions and discs of crisp chorizo with two fried eggs. It’s delicious.

On our weekend visit, we order the Mexican corn cakes, avocado on toast and the mixed grain bowl.

The bacon is cold on the Mexican dish, though the egg cake itself is warm and flavoursom­e. The accompanyi­ng Sriracha sauce tastes sweet for some reason and the sour cream on the side seems superfluou­s.

I find the mixed grain bowl of some kimchi, quinoa, raisins, nuts, half an avocado, lots of undressed rocket and a fried egg bland. Coffees are excellent again.

Seagrass has a killer view and draws an enviable crowd, but some of the service delivery procedures might need to be reassessed to avoid the possibilit­y of not coping with the demand that comes with such a setting.

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