FOOD & WINE

RAINCHECK LOUNGE 392 Elizabeth St, North Hobart Open Sunday, Monday and Tuesday 7am to 6pm, Wednesday to Saturday 7am to 10pm. 6234 5975

The old adage of one door opening as another door closes is certainly true of the ever-changing hospitality scene. Wandering up to North Hobart from the CBD on an unseasonably warm Friday evening, I notice a few new additions to the Elizabeth St landscape.

What was once Mako fish and chippery has become Osaka Izakaya and Grill. Curiously, it opened for just five days in October before suddenly closing. A note I read recently on the window promised improvements to the menu and service after the “trial time”.

It read: “We wish to get everything prefect [sic] next time when we officially open.”

True to its word, it is open again – unlike south-of-the-border eatery Sons of Baja, right next door. Rising from the ashes of Elizabeth St Food + Wine, it too has gone by the wayside. The fittings remain, right down to the utensils dangling from the wall in the open kitchen, but there are no signs of life. Out of interest, I try calling the number listed on their inactive-looking Facebook page. It’s no longer connected.

Further up the strip, I see Pane Cucina bakery has had a vivid green makeover to become Chopp Chopp, peddling coffee, smoothies, salad and sushi. And a Chinese restaurant on the Newdegate St corner that I didn’t even get the chance to try has already gone, replaced by Korean eatery Kalbi – another one for the to-do list.

But my destination for tonight is the Raincheck Lounge, which is also under new management. Carl Windsor and co have left the building, handing the keys to Angie Nichols and Emma Davis. The pair are best known for transforming the Dickens Cider House in Montpelier Retreat into the more sophisticated Society Salamanca, which specialises in local spirits, wines and beers.

From the outside, Raincheck Lounge appears much the same. A chalkboard advertises aperitivo hour from 3pm to 6pm. I realise I’ve missed it. Thankfully there’s a glass of rosé waiting at the table inside occupied by my other half. The interior also looks much the same but fresher, as if it’s had a good spring clean.

It’s 7pm and about half the tables are taken. Two middle-aged women catch-up at the next table while a couple further along get acquainted. Their body language suggests first date or RSVP rendezvous.

We go for the easy option, the chef’s menu – a six-course offering that changes weekly. I notice most of the surrounding tables have done the same. The Asian-inspired menu starts with roti and peanut sauce, served on a bamboo board and garnished with coriander. Next come the Thai fish cakes and the soba noodle salad. The fish cakes, my favourite dish of the evening, are perched on a bed of rocket and drizzled with a sweet soy sauce. The salad boasts a variety of textures, including crunchy capsicum, red cabbage, fried shallots and the freshness of mint.

The waitress asks if we’d like a break between courses just as musical duo Dean Stevenson and Dave Wilson set up near the bar to start playing a few tunes. Their repertoire encompasses a few blasts from the past by Pink Floyd and The Kinks. As I Wish You Were Here rings out, two pork belly bao buns and the karaage chicken materialise. The buns disappear within a few bites but the sizeable serve of fried chicken morsels dressed with tangy-sweet sriracha mayo and sesame seeds is a little harder to conquer as we begin to reach our food limit.

After another short break, neatly coinciding with the end of Dean and Dave’s first set, we tackle the final instalment of coconut icecream with mango and strawberry salsa, again featuring fresh mint. It’s a refreshing finish to a pleasant meal.

On the waddle home to Weho, I wonder what changes the Society partners have in store for their new lounge room. It’s a clear case of watch this space.