CONTEXT IN CONTEXT

STILLWATER

2 Bridge Rd, Launceston Breakfast from 8am, 7 days a week; Lunch from 12pm, 7 days a week; Dinner from 6pm Tuesday-Saturday

For me, a trip to Launceston is never complete without a meal at Stillwater. This year the restaurant is celebrating its 20th year of operation, a true feat in the world of hospitality. Of those 20 years, chef Craig Will has been there for almost 10 and the restaurant has consistently maintained a coveted “hat” since The Good Food Guide went national three years ago. This level of stamina is a credit to Will and his highly respected team and fellow co-owners that include hospitality heavyweights Bianca and James Welsh along with hotelier, Chris McNally and tourism industry guns Kim Seagram and Rod Ascui.

By virtue of my consulting work I am fortunate to be staying at Stillwater’s latest edition, Stillwater Seven, a boutique hotel offering with, as the name suggests, seven heavenly rooms. As the restaurant offers breakfast, lunch and dinner service, staying the night affords me a chance to experience each of menu offering. I arrive at 1pm, enough time for a one-hour solo lunch prior to check in.

Will is dedicated to fostering relationships with local producers, so the seasonal menu is heavily dictated by what he’s able to source from his little black book of contacts. I order a single half shell Tasmanian scallop with whipped white soy and katsuobushi butter ($5.50) to start, followed by Tasmanian octopus spaghetti with tomato, fennel and black olive ($35) and a salad of mixed leaves, pepitas, manchego and merlot vinaigrette ($9).

At 20 weeks pregnant, I can only longingly stare at the award-winning wine list by head sommelier and co-owner, James Welsh. Tasmanian varietals from the Tamar Valley are the focus of the list but there are also international options including my favourite herbal digestive drink from Sardinia, Mirto (if you’ve never tried it, do yourself a favour).

Served in its shell atop a pile of artfully arranged pebbles to hold it in place, the scallop is delicate and creamy with a beautiful, salty umami kick from the soy and katsuobushi (otherwise known as bonito). The spaghetti’s rich tomato sauce and black olive makes it almost bolognese-like but it is also light and summery at the same time smattered with tender pieces of octopus meat and smothered with crispy breadcrumbs and verdant chopped chives. The salad is so simple but the quality of the greens is evident in their crunch made even better by the toasted pepitas and a generous grating of bitey manchego.

While a post pasta nap in one of Stillwater Seven’s cloud-like beds beckons, alas there is work to be done so I settle in to my room’s workstation with my laptop, willing my digestion to kick in to make room for dinner.

I make my way back to the restaurant in the evening to dine with colleagues. Tonight Will has put together a menu for our group beginning with his beautiful snacks followed by the most carroty baby carrots I have tasted, roasted and served with stracciatella, rosemary and honey dressing and a linseed crisp ($20). Next, it’s Tasmanian black-lip abalone, garlic custard, sea succulents, miso broth, and kombu oil ($36). Out of this world. Will’s menu is a melting pot of flavours and techniques from around the world. His menu is innovative but approachable with options that suit those with an adventurous palate as well as diners like my dad (a strictly meat and three veg man) who would be at home with Will’s Clover Country lamb rump, almond cream, caper berries, fennel pollen and confit potato ($47).

Will’s side dish game is also particularly strong. The hasselback potatoes with whipped garlic and parsley butter ($11) are utterly crunchy and addictive and the roasted broccoli head with lemon chilli oil and parmesan is the stuff of legends ($11). The evening salad combo of butter lettuce, golden raisins, merlot vinaigrette and manchego ($11) is also a delight and subtly different from the salad I enjoyed at lunch. To finish we are presented with macerated ruby red plum, umeboshi cream and almond sorbet ($18). Dessert is not something you want to skip at Stillwater so make sure you save room.

Next morning I trot back to the restaurant (now basically my second home) for breakfast. By the way, the full restaurant menu is also available as room service for hotel guests.

Brunch can be whatever you want it to be here with lighter options like house-made granola ($14) or fruit toast with cultured butter and cinnamon sugar ($11) right up to eggs Benedict with all the trimmings or a full-blown Reuben with sliced Wagyu ($24) and an optional added fried egg ($3.50). I opt for somewhere in between with Blue swimmer crab scrambled eggs, green onion Korean chilli sauce and toasted sourdough ($28). For the long lazy brunch aficionado there is also a selection of sparkling wines and a Spicy Bloody Mary with Hartshorn Sheep’s Whey Vodka $18. I may well just move in.