Mercury (Hobart)

Better … and best

- GRAEME PHILLIPS

As this is my penultimat­e column, I thought you might like to know about some of the four-star (excellent) and fivestar (fabulous) wines that have come my way since January.

FOUR-STAR WHITES Mount Langi Ghiran 2014 Cliff Edge riesling $25:

Age is adding touches of gold while the nose and palate are beginning to display the delicious caramel characters that Australian rieslings take on with time.

Kate Hill 2015 riesling $28:

Delicate floral, limey aromas followed by a soft-fruit palate around a dry minerally core and finishing long and crisp.

Robert Stein 2016 riesling $30:

Smells and tastes much sweeter than the back label indicates, with floral, tropical and limecordia­l-like flavours on a richly textured palate.

Native Point 2014 riesling $30:

Shows how cool climate rieslings can fill out to become more textured, rich with lime essence while retaining wonderful freshness.

Bremerton 2013 Batonnage chardonnay $32:

Intense, creamy texture and nicely balanced, showing nuts, biscuit and toffee-like complexity.

Yering Station 2014 Estate chardonnay $40:

Fruity and oaky with age providing a pleasing mellowness and richness to the ripe, sweetish peach and nectarine flavours

Moss Wood 2015 Wilyabrup chardonnay $65:

Lots of dried figs and nutty, oatmeal, yeasty flavours plus a touch of woody dryness on a tight palate.

Xanadu 2013 Reserve Chardonnay $85:

Honey, nutty, crème brulee and ripe peach aromas with a rich complex palate.

Tim Adams 2014 semillon $24:

A richer semillon than usual with lovely lemon curd flavours combining with the subtle oak.

Huntington Estate 2015 special reserve semillon $28:

Light, fresh, lemon and lime juice aromas and flavours on a tight, long-finishing palate.

Bremerton 2016 fiano $24:

Soft and dry with minerally, spicy aromas and flavours, with more complex citrus and honey touches in the mouth

FIVE-STAR WHITES Scotchmans Hill 2016 late harvest riesling $25 (375ml):

Bright and succulent with botrytis-influenced nectarine, stewed apples and honey flavours balanced by good, zesty acidity.

Gala Estate 2016 late harvest riesling $35:

Less intense and not as sweet as the Scotchmans Hill, but with lime cordial-like flavours and a sort of gingerbeer zesty spiciness.

Morningsid­e 2016 riesling $25:

An absolute Tassie classic, with citrus, floral and green apple aromas and flavours and a delicious minerally crispness and sherbetfre­sh tang.

Glen Ayr 2013 riesling $30:

A classic aged riesling with all the citrus freshness and toast and lime marmalade flavours you could want.

Glaetzer-Dixon 2016 uberblanc riesling $30:

As much about texture and richness as it is about flavours, with the lusciously ripe apricot and mandarin-like characters carried on a smoothly textured, rounded, juicy and savoury palate.

Yering Station 2015 chardonnay $40:

Bright golden colour with complex ripe fig and citrusy flavours interwoven with cashew and butterscot­ch notes.

Shaw + Smith 2015 M3 chardonnay $44:

Fronted by lovely rich pear and stone fruit flavours with honey and nutty toffee notes adding depth and complexity.

Brown Brothers 2012 Patricia chardonnay $45:

Brown Bros top-of-the-range chardonnay, with citrus and syrupy fig aromas and flavours on a voluptuous, beautifull­y structured, mid-weight palate.

Stefano Lubiana 2012 Collina chardonnay $90 (CD):

An exquisite, top French Burgundy-like wine with an intense, mouth-watering complexity of citrus, honey, oatmeal and patisserie cream, silky smooth and balanced.

Hardy’s 2014 Eileen Hardy chardonnay $95:

Intensity, delicious balance and deep complexity with the ripe stone fruit, subtle oak and minerally components.

Gartelmann 2016 Benjamin semillon $25:

A complex array of freshly cut grass, lemon peel and honeysuckl­e on a beautifull­y balanced palate.

Inverquhar­ity 2016 gewurztram­iner $30:

A cracker gurwurz with all the exotic spice, musk and pungency that you could want.

Grey Sands 2014 Pinot Gris $45:

Previous vintages of Grey Sands’ pinot gris have been acclaimed as the best in Australia. This is as good as their previous best with a delicious savoury core, creamy texture and a dry, nutty finish.

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