WINE WITH TONY LOVE
Is there a more perfect refreshment on a hot day than a crisp, dry Aussie riesling? Zinging with citrus and green apple bite, it turns even basic fish and chips or fried chicken into a tasty indulgence
YALUMBA 2017 / The Y Series Riesling Region: Barossa Valley Best with: Salmon rissoles
In long, cool vintages like 2017, riesling is at its best as it develops intensity while retaining its brilliant freshness. At $15 this is a little Barossa Valley/Eden Valley beauty, its citrus nose more towards orange and mandarin, the palate toned neatly so not to be razored, yet with enough crispness to show a trademark lemon tang, and even some wild-ferment inspired texture. Fab weeknight value.
PIZZINI 2017 / Riesling Region: King Valley, Victoria Best with: Fish Tacos
Riesling thrives in the cooler climate regions, here altitude is a positive factor in easing the grapes through their ripening to retain their natural acidity and freshness. This wine has all the pretty citrus zest and orchard florals expected from the variety, with a little extra exotica as well — some lime leaf, even the wilder tang of grapefruit, with a nice, pithy palate that helps the drinking.
RIPOSTE THE SCIMITAR 2017 / Riesling Region: Clare Valley Best with: Coconut, chilli-crumbed prawns
Riposte is veteran Tim Knappstein and son, and there are few who know Clare riesling better than Tim. This is from a single vineyard in the Watervale sub-region, and what winemakers love about the variety is the wine shows a personality unique to that source. It’s quite layered and complex with darker spiced citrus notes, as if brown sugared but not sweet, and has a beautiful balance.
EDDYSTONE POINT 2016 / Riesling Region: Tasmania Best with: Crab salad, Thai dressing, betel leaf
Crafted from Coal River and Derwent Valley fruit, this wine is so attractive in its barest off-dry point, a riesling with all the hallmarks of a fine German style, its fruit spectrum more about cut apple rather than diamond-edged citrus, delicate floral notes entwined in that subtle residual sweet lift while clean lines and length drive the tasting. You’d be pressed to find a purer expression of the variety. PENFOLDS BIN 51
Riesling Region: Eden Valley Best with: Kingfish carpaccio
Eden Valley also experienced the benefits of the 2017 milder, longer ripening season. This encouraged an expressive aromatic profile, pretty in its florally perfumed beginnings, then an array of citrus, definitely limes, even into yellow grapefruit, then feeling beautifully sculpted as you sip, with nicely layered and friendly acidity driving into long, lingering citrus notes.