Mercury (Hobart)

BAKERS ON RISE

- TRACY RENKIN

TASMANIAN bakers are returning to the roots of their craft and drawing the attention of the world.

A sourdough revolution is happening in the state, with passionate bakers ditching yeast and recreating ancient bread-making techniques.

One of those leading the charge is Launceston sourdough guru Ian Lowe, of Apiece.

Lowe is inspired by European bakers who still use natural leavening. After 20 years baking bread, Lowe has developed a global reputation as a sourdough master.

Bakers come from across the world to work at Apiece to observe and learn the art.

When TasWeekend talked to Lowe recently, he had one baker from Phoenix, Arizona, and a pastry chef, formerly of Vue de monde in Melbourne, visiting — and two more were on their way, one from the US and another from Brazil.

“The emphasis is on simple, old-world techniques with a focus on flavour,” Annalisa Macaluso, of Arizona, said.

“This becomes immediatel­y obvious after one meeting with the incredibly talented people on the team.

“The owner, Ian, is a wealth of knowledge. He is extremely passionate about contributi­ng to the betterment of the culinary world.”

Cygnet Woodfired Bakehouse baker Cam McKenzie is another at the forefront.

“There are some brilliant bakers that have moved to Tasmania,” he said. “We are spoilt for choice and I love it.”

Some of his favourite bakery treats aren’t his own.

“Pigeon Hole’s rye molasses is beautiful and really unique,” he said. “Summer Kitchen’s fruit toast is delicious but their sprouted rye is exceptiona­l and I love it.

“Apiece’s mieche, which is a really big round classic French bread, is so good but his baguettes, wow, they will blow your socks off!”

North Hobart’s Sweet Envy baker Alistair Wise enjoys the sourdough at Cygnet Woodfired Bakehouse: “He [McKenzie] mixes his bread by hand... he’s been to France and made sourdough over there — his sourdough is pretty wicked.”

Read more about the Tasmanian sourdough renaissanc­e in today’s TasWeekend.

There are some brilliant bakers that have moved to Tasmania. We are spoilt for choice and I love it.”

Cygnet’s Woodfired Bakehouse baker CAM MCKENZIE

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