Something to stew over
I UNDERSTAND vegetarianism. I don’t subscribe to the practice, but I can perfectly appreciate its intent.
Yet for all our modernity, too many of us are indifferent to the consequences of meat eating, and fail to give necessary regard to the complete carcass.
It’s a tricky area, because offal is a no-go zone for many. However, that some cuts are sanctioned while others are proscribed has more to do with their life-giving properties than their flavour.
Essential organs seem more closely connected to our uniquely human condition than do muscles. When considered in this way, the distinction seems a little absurd.
There are several cuts that constitute the grey zone between meat and offal, ones that more consumers should consider as regular parts of their diet: shin, tail, tongue and neck. These are the outlier parts of the animal standing at an arbitrary distance from what we consider prime meat.
The distinction is discretionary and without basis in thought. After all, these are some of the most flavoursome cuts and unctuously tender when prepared correctly.
Of all the peripheral cuts, neck is the one most worthy of reconsideration. In most animals it is an extension of the principal loin muscle so highly prized by chefs and diners.
If you want one individual cut to test this out with, ask your butcher for some lamb neck fillet.
If you want the most flavoursome and impressive braise, then broaden your mind, and look further than the standard cuts.
RUSTIC LAMB RED WINE STEW serves / 4-6 Ingredients
1.4kg lamb neck fillet, cut into large pieces Sea salt flakes and freshly milled black pepper 2 tbsp plain flour ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil 6 rashers streaky bacon, sliced 2 brown onions, chopped 4 sticks celery, chopped 4 carrots, peeled and chopped 8 cloves garlic 4 sprigs rosemary 750ml red wine 500ml beef stock 1½ cups dried borlotti beans (soaked in cold water for at least six hours) 1 bunch parsley leaves, roughly chopped Damper, to serve
Method
Season the lamb pieces with salt and pepper, then toss with the plain flour to coat evenly. Fry in half the olive oil in a saucepan for seven to eight minutes, until well browned. Set aside. Add the bacon to the saucepan and fry until browned. Add the onions, celery, carrots, garlic and rosemary with the remaining olive oil, then cook for five minutes. Pour in the wine and bring to a boil. Simmer for five minutes, then return the lamb and pour in the stock. Cook very gently for two hours. Add the beans to the saucepan, mix in, then cook for 90 minutes. Scoop out the carrot pieces and press through a sieve, and stir back in to thicken the sauce. Fold in the parsley leaves, then serve with damper.