An exclusive property where wallabies, jabiru and crocodiles are your nearest neighbours, offers unparalleled solitude.
An exclusive lodge only accessible by small plane, where rock wallabies, jabiru and crocodiles are your nearest neighbours, offers visitors magnificent scenery, exquisite local cuisine and unparalleled solitude.
It’s the colours of the Kimberley Coast that seduce you – the red dirt, turquoise waters, aqua blue skies and the occasional fluffy white clouds that dance across the sky. Then there’s the wildlife – a hefty crocodile lazing on a sun-drenched sandbank or peering out from tangled mangroves, keeping an eye on you.
Watch out for the occasional whale breaching on the horizon, dolphins riding the waves and if you are handy with a rod maybe you’ll land a barramundi or two.
Accessible only by air in a small plane from Darwin, that first bird’s-eye view of the Berkeley River and its stunning landscape, leaves you in awe.
After a perfect landing on the dirt airstrip, we are whisked away to the Berkeley River Lodge, our home for five days, glass of bubbles in hand.
Opened in 2012, the lodge, built on a 105-metre high sand dune in the middle of nowhere, is considered a feat of engineering and perseverance.
All materials for constructing the lodge, 20 villas and a 20-metre lap pool were shipped by barge. Eight years later it is still providing a rare opportunity for guests to experience the treasures of Western Australia’s remote north-east Kimberley Coast.
It’s the type of place where you can’t take your eyes off the view and it’s a toss-up whether it’s the Berkeley River sunset or Timor Sea sunrise that’s more impressive. Activities, apart from the helicopter adventures, are inclusive, and the river cruise is a true highlight.
“HIGHLIGHTS INCLUDE LEMON MYRTLE-SPICED KANGAROO FILLET WITH PUMPKIN COULIS.”
“Here’s our first croc for the day,” says lodge manager Matt Dempsey as he nudges the boat a little closer. “This big fella isn’t paying us any attention but look at those scars – he’s a fighter for sure.”
It’s a red-letter day as Dempsey swings past a place where rock wallabies are known to hang out and right on cue we see a couple hopping around. We also see jabiru with black and white plumage and stick-like, coral-red legs, egrets and eagles. But it’s the raw beauty of this majestic landscape that takes centre stage. We cruise by deep sandstone gorges with pleated walls displaying colours from ruby-red to dark brown. Dempsey, who is a crack crocodile spotter and knows the area well, believes the Berkeley is one of Australia’s most remarkable places. “It has an effect on people – some arrive stressed, checking their internet all the time and you see them slow down, chill and soak up the beauty of these parts,” he says.
Other activities include bush and beach drives where you discover the unique flora and fauna, a cliff-top hike and fishing, which is an adventure.
Fishing guides Bruce and Andy know all the good spots and are happy to share their knowledge along with endless patience baiting your line. I tallied 10 fish all up, hooking a decent size mango jack and blue nose salmon. Unfortunately, the barra weren’t biting as the waters were too warm.
But the biggest thrill is rockhopping on a half-day helicopter Ultimate Kimberley Sunset Adventure where you are whisked from one amazing sight to another. Our Kiwi pilot Newman Subritzky loves showing off the Kimberley treasures. First up we land on the rocks for a refreshing swim in a crystal-clear freshwater rock pool – where crocs can’t venture. Twenty minutes later we land on the top of King George Falls where the rocks are polished by raging waters in the wet. It’s here you feel dwarfed by the magnificent scenery and experience that Kimberley solitude. It’s just you and the landscape. Seats appear and drinks are served – you won’t find a better rock bar.
RARE ROCK ART
Our next stop is to visit one of the many ancient rock art galleries in the area where the walls and ceilings are decorated with spotted dugong, stick-figure Bradshaws, emu footprints and other animals.
“It is difficult to know how old the art is but there’s so much of it up here and only a handful of people have seen it,” says Subritzky.
Finally, it’s that blood-red sunset atop Mt Casuarina that leaves us speechless as we soak in the magnificence of the landscape with its deep gorges carved over millions of years. Rock star moment over, it’s time for pre-dinner drinks and canapés where guests mingle and recount their daily adventures. Croc sightings are discussed and fish tallies compared as guests dine indoors or outdoors at communal tables.
Dining is an adventure, with a different four-course degustation menu each night. Menu highlights include salmon fillets with Pommes Anna and saffron beurre blanc, lemon myrtle-spiced kangaroo fillet with pumpkin coulis and bush apple sauce and spiced lamb fillets with carrot puree and marmalade.
A refreshing sorbet appears in between courses to freshen the palate and a sweet grande finale such as panna cotta or a berry tasting plate. Wines are matched and inclusive.
Breakfasts are hearty with lots of choice including the Big Berkeley with the lot, we well as healthier options. Picnic lunches are supplied on activities or if you want a morning off, laze by the pool and select from the lunch menu.
Our air-conditioned villa has knock-out seaside views with a daybed on the deck. There’s no television and wi-fi is only accessed at the lodge. Room service is available and there’s a coffee machine and a thermos of refreshing cold water regularly topped up. It may not be your conventional luxury accommodation but it’s the unique wilderness location that make this eco-friendly retreat so special.
As for one of the best memories – it’s moonlight lazing in the warm waters of the stone bath in the outdoor ensuite under a vast blanket of twinkling Kimberley stars. Unforgettable. berkeleyriverlodge.com.au truenorthhelicopters.com.au