RAYLEEN BROWN
“WE WOULD LIKE TO SEE INDIGENOUS PEOPLE SHARE IN THE BENEFITS OF THEIR TRADITIONAL FOODS.”
RAYLEEN BROWN
ALICE SPRINGS, NT
A childhood in remote areas inspired a lifelong interest in bush food and a desire to advocate for First Nations people.
Being the eldest child of six, cooking was an integral part of Rayleen Brown’s life. “My mother was always employed as a cook, so preparing dinner became my job. Dad was also a great cook. He loved Asian flavours and was known for his kangaroo satays – a real Territory special. And my sister is a chef, too.”
Much of Brown’s childhood was spent travelling in remote areas. “There were times back in Central Australia when we went out with my aunty to collect bush fruit such as bush bananas, bush passionfruit as well as witchetty grubs and honey ants. I loved sitting in the back of the ute travelling the dirt roads,” she says.
Formerly a caterer, she has become a bush food ‘provedore’, sourcing produce directly from the women who gather it for her business Kungkas (‘women’ in the Pitjantjatjara language) Can Cook.
Her wild-grown, hand-picked products include wattleseed, lemon myrtle, saltbush and quandong, as well as teas and dukkahs. “I also advocate on behalf of Indigenous people and educate everyone regarding the wonderful produce found within the bush-food industry.”
And while she is pleased that chefs are increasingly using bush foods as part of their culinary repertoire, she wants to encourage them to also research the provenance and traditional uses. “And to respect the ecological knowledge possessed by the owners of these truly unique foods and appreciate how this knowledge has been carried down orally through stories, dance and cultural practice. Like many traditional foods from across the world, the food culture has been embraced but sometimes exploited.
“As to myself and other First Nation leaders, we would like to see Indigenous people share in the benefits of their traditional foods within this growing industry and to be able to participate in all areas of the supply chain.”