Grime TIME
Your questions answered
Make it stop! My five-year-old Mondraker Foxy is making annoying creaking noises. I ride it every week and haven’t had any issues before. I’ve not taken it to a bike shop because I’d like to have an idea of what the problem might be before I spend a load of cash on it. I only hear the noise when I push down hard on the pedals and it sounds like it’s coming from the bottom bracket or one of the pivots. Any ideas? Jonathan Woods, via email Tracking down a creak can be tricky. The best approach is to eliminate one thing at a time. Start by trying different pedals. Next, remove the rear shock and check the mounting bolts for signs of wear, including score marks. If they look at all damaged, replace them. While the shock is out, remove the rear wheel and cycle the bike through its travel to check it feels smooth, and not at all notchy or stiff. Push the back end from side to side with your hand over each pivot to feel for play (a crude test, but if things are particularly bad you should be able to tell). The pivot bearings are likely to need replacing by now anyway, so contact www.silverfishuk.com for spares or ask your local bike shop to do the job.
We’d also recommend removing and checking the bottom bracket. First, feel for play in the axle by wobbling the cranks, then disassemble the crankset and BB and give it a thorough inspection and clean. If it looks and feels in good nick, reinstall it. But if it’s gritty, notchy or full of play, it’s time to replace it. Lastly, check the shock bushings, the crank/ axle interface and that the chainring is bolted on tight. If you’re still scratching your head after all of this, give the Foxy to your local shop to find the creak. No pressure I’m unsure whether to make the move to a tubeless set-up. I have the tyres already but just don’t know whether it’s worth the hassle. Is it easy to do and what are the benefits? Collin Jackson, via email
While we still have a few riders in the office who aren’t totally convinced, most of us have been tubeless for a good few years now. Puncture prevention is improved (there’s no tube to pinch and the liquid sealant inside the tyre can fill small holes or tears), you can run lower pressures, which boosts traction, and you’re saving weight where it counts (the outside of your wheels). OK, there are downsides, such as the mess when changing tyres and, depending on your tyre/ rim combo, possible inflation difficulties, but over time the pros outweigh the cons. If you’re planning on making the switch, check whether your wheels are tubeless ready (in which case, you’ll just need sealant, valves and maybe tubeless tape too, depending on the rim design). For non-tubeless wheels, you’ll need a full conversion kit, including rubber rim strips. We’d go for something like the Stan’s NoTubes or Joe’s No-Flats kits, which work well and have easyto-follow instructions. Battered and bruised I’m tired of falling off and cutting my arms to shreds. Can you recommend some elbow pads? I only ride XC and trail centres, so would rather avoid looking like Robocop if I can. Gavin Smith, via email Bliss’s ARG Minimalist pads fit under your jersey easily, stay in place and are comfy for long rides. At just under £40 they’re decently priced too. Troy Lee Designs offer some even lighter, comfier pads called the Speed Sleeves for £50. Remember though, these lightweight options won’t protect you from much more than gravel rash.