The BIG Ride
We journey down to the heart of Devon, in the hopes of i nding at least a bit of dry ground. What we discover are some seriously stamina-testing trails and stunning hilltop views
This issue, Max and Russell head to Fingle Bridge on Dartmoor in the hope of finally finding some dry trails
With months of horrendous weather through the winter and into the spring months, we had to rack our brains to think of somewhere we might be able to find some dry land. Then I had a lightbulb moment – Devon’s always sunny, right? Well, at least according to every tourism advert for the South West. So, that’s why Russell and I find ourselves heading in this exact direction down the M5, on our way to Dartmoor. Except it’s not quite as we imagined... Bleary-eyed, we peer through a rain-splattered windscreen, wiper blades flapping at full speed and van headlights attempting to pierce the gloomy spray outside. The forecast has even changed its mind and is now showing rain all day. “Great bloody idea this was,” Russell keeps reiterating, as I sit there sheepishly, cursing the weather app and those deceiving adverts… The sun’s on our side When the clouds finally crack, the sun bursts through from behind, so we kit up and head straight out. We were due to start the ride at Fingle Bridge, but the requirement of phone reception and the lure of a cafe has led us to Castle Drogo, up on the hillside. Starting from up high means we’ll finish with a climb, rather than the fun descent to Fingle Bridge, but that isn’t enough of a draw to persuade Russell back
down those narrow roads in his fancy van. So, we start by descending from Castle Drogo to the famous Hunter’s Path, which runs along the top of the Teign Gorge, offering stunning views over the deep, wooded valley – a wonderful surprise to most people, who wouldn’t know to expect it. It makes for a stunning finish, but it’s an impressive way to start a ride too.
Despite the car park being rammed, the path is deserted. No one seems to have ventured out of the cafe or castle, so we make the most of the peace. Russell, now happy again (maybe for the first time this year!), is snapping away, and I think I may finally be forgiven. Sadly, the trail’s been somewhat ‘improved’ and smoothed out over the years, but it’s still good, offering a fast and flowing, hardpacked ride, with a few roots and rocks protruding through the new surface adding some technical interest. Fun descent Eventually, we peel ourselves away from the views and follow the trail as it descends, wiggling its way between the trees, where numerous roots reach out like tentacles, making the descent technical and fun. You normally need to be cautious of walkers, but we have a glorious clear run today and are soon in the valley bottom, crossing Fingle Bridge to our originally-planned start.
A permissive path now runs alongside the River Teign here, enabling us to make a big loop in and around the valley slopes. This trail has also been ‘improved’, but being in the valley bottom and with the recent wet weather, we’re actually grateful for a good surface to ride for a change. It’s a pleasant spin along the path, and some little bits of singletrack parallel to the main path now and again, all the way to Clifford Bridge. Time to climb Dartmoor is well known for its steep, wooded hillsides and we’re given a wake-up call with a stiff tarmac climb out of the valley. Well, I am – Russell just clicks up the assistance levels on his e-bike and pulls away from me. We dive into Cod Wood, following more permissive trails, and soon descend at speed on a wide but rough track back to the peaceful riverside.
The high-speed, rocky descent makes its mark – literally – on Russell’s rim, which is now spitting spaff and air out of a fresh ding. After some crude jokes about being safe with rubber, spaff and rims, a new tube is fitted and we’re off. Albeit more slowly now, with a steep, stony climb back up the hillside, but it’s not until the very top, where it becomes dirt singletrack, that the trail becomes too slippery to ride. Impressive, considering I can barely ride on the flat without sliding backwards on my local trails at the moment.
The fast descent back down through the woods also runs really well, delivering us back to the riverside with wide grins – and another flat tyre. It turns out that the descent was too much for the new tube we just put in the wide tyre of Russell’s
heavy e-bike. Of course, we’re at the furthest point in the ride, so we bodge some repairs and start the journey back (cautiously) along the valley bottom. It’s an idyllic setting to fix a flat in, though, sat among the fresh green shoots of spring flowers pushing their way up through the ground, with rays of welcome sunshine piercing the canopy of the woods as we dunk the tube into a babbling river to find the hole. The last push There’s nothing too challenging along this section, but it’s a nice ride through the woods and, if you’re feeling fit, riding it at speed or choosing a line over the roots to the side will add some excitement along the way, and it soon leads back to Clifford Bridge. You’d think we’d be getting used to the climbs out of this valley by now, but it’s a tough test, starting steeply and continuing on and on along the tarmac, so not even the traction card can be used.
After 4km, much puffing and some cramp in our soft winter legs, we turn back off-road onto a byway, descending through Charles Wood and back to Fingle Bridge. It’s fast and furious to start, but the bottom, which was once rough and rocky, has also received some ‘improvements’. It isn’t exactly smooth, but hopefully it won’t be too long before it’s a bit rougher again.
The trail spits us out by Fingle Bridge, where once again we join the riverside for a relaxing spin along the valley floor. Well, it would be if I wasn’t chasing an e-bike. We exit the mouth of the valley and bear left, skirting around the edge of Whiddon deer park until we meet a road. Joining the tarmac, we follow it to Sandy Park and begin the climb up the steep side of the Teign Gorge for the final time. The tarmac eventually gives way to the good, firm track off the Hunter’s Trail once again. At the top, we take a short detour to the right by foot onto the rocks at Hunter’s Tor and gaze out at the stunning views – it makes it even better that we still have the place to ourselves.
Despite the incline and having significantly more tired and heavy legs than at the start of the day, the good surface, spectacular setting and lure of the cafe at the end propel us along.
It really is an amazing trail and an amazing end to the ride. The route has chopped and changed all day between high-speed descents and gruelling climbs, with contrasting easy spins along the valley floor – and it’s been brilliant. Not least because the trails are all firm and ridable, but also because new permissive trails have opened up the riding through this beautiful valley, enabling cyclists to now enjoy its comprehensive beauty. Worth it On the climb back to the car park, Russell’s tyre goes flat for the third time as the rain starts to fall, but this only adds to the euphoria of finishing – exhausted, having finally ridden a good distance and on firm trails after what has seemed like the longest winter ever.
Even better, the cafe is virtually empty, save for a few cakes with our names on them. We decide that perhaps it really is best to head south-west for the sun – we certainly found a dry oasis in this beautiful valley. Maybe spring really has finally sprung. Well, down these ends anyway...