Carry out a pre-ride safety check, aka the “M check”

Check your tyre pressures, using a digital pressure gauge or the gauge on a track pump. Air will leak out of the tyres over time, so they’ll need topping up regularly. Attach a pump (a track pump is easiest/quickest) and inflate to your preferred pressures. Make sure the wheels are secure. Quick-release levers – whether on a skewer or through-axle – should be pushed in towards the spokes until they stop, otherwise they can work loose. This should take a little force to achieve. If not, adjust the lever/axle. Holding the frame with one hand, wiggle each rim from side to side with the other to check for play in the hubs. Run your hand over the spokes to check for loose or broken ones. Spin the wheels to check they’re running reasonably straight and true. Wiggle the saddle nose up and down to check it’s secure on the seatpost. Ensure it’s aligned with the frame and set at the right height. The seat clamp should be tight enough to stop the post twisting, but not so tight that it damages it (or hinders dropper operation).

Check the chain is well-lubricated and reasonably clean. This will save on drivetrain wear, and also reduce noise and drag when riding. While you’re down there, see if there’s any side-to-side play in the crankset, and tighten if necessary. Use one hand to hold the front brake on and the other to feel for play at the top of the headset as you rock the bike back and forth. If you find any, tighten the headset. Check the handlebar is straight relative to the fork, and that all the stem bolts are tight. Squeeze both brake levers several times. They should feel similar each time and stop before hitting the bar. If the brakes feel spongy or soft, they may need a bleed. Before hitting the trails, ride at walking pace and check each brake has enough oomph to stop you fast.