Quick fix tips

Get the right chain length

Route the chain round the (largest) chainring and largest sprocket, skipping the rear mech. Attach half a split link to one end. If your bike has rear suspension, compress it fully (note shock pressure, release all air, push swingarm up and strap it to mainframe). Find the pin that will, once replaced with the other half of the split link, keep the chain taut. You’ll need to break the chain at the fourth (SRAM 11/12-speed) or second (all other chains) pin along from the one you’ve identified, on the overlapping section. Place the links joined by the pin you want to remove on the teeth of a chain tool (the pair of teeth furthest from the handle, if there are two sets). Ensure everything is lined up, then turn the handle clockwise until the pin is pushed out and the surplus links fall away. Unscrew the tool. Shift the mech so it’s below the smallest sprocket, then route the chain over the sprocket and through the mech. The chain will be easier to join if not under tension. Activate the ‘Cage Lock’ (some SRAM mechs) or use a chain hook.

Attach the other half of the split link to the other end of the chain, facing the opposite way. Note the directional arrow – this must line up with the direction the chain moves in when pedalling forwards. Push the links together until they lock into place. Tension the chain. Pedal the cranks forwards until the split link is on the upper part of the chain, between the chainring and cassette. Hold the rear brake on while pushing down on the forward crank arm. When there’s enough tension in the chain, the split link will audibly click into place. Remove the strap securing the swingarm to the mainframe (if applicable) and reinflate the shock to the pressure you noted earlier, using a shock pump. Check that the chain isn’t slack when in the smallest sprocket. If it is, go back and double-check step two.