SHELTER FROM THE STORM
Although I embarked on a solo journey, I didn’t do it alone. Many old, and new, friends selflessly welcomed me into their homes, and I was humbled by the cycling community I met along the way. Strangers became friends and, whether they know it or not, they pieced me back together when I was close to packing it in. It sounds clichéd, but these are the memories I’ll hold on to. The ones that stop me in my tracks and remind me that even the smallest gesture of compassion can have a profound impact.
A forecast for 40mph winds and heavy rain wasn’t what I wanted to hear rolling into the Brecon Beacons, but, as if sent by the adventure gods, a couple stopped me, curious about my bike, and welcomed me into their house. The maps came out, the coffee flowed and I discovered that Kim and Tracey were well-versed in the world of bikepacking. They offered me a hot meal and roof for the night, and pointed me in the direction of a bothy, which, although not completely water-tight, saved me from a ferocious storm the next night.
Earlier in the trip, on day seven, I’d turned up on the doorstep of my Warm Showers [a worldwide hospitality exchange for cyclists] host in Fort William with both knees strapped, popping painkillers like candy and so severely saddlesore that sitting was no longer an option. If it wasn’t for the hospitality and generosity I received from Krista, I’m not sure I could have faced getting back on the bike to tackle the West Highland Way. Twelve days later, Cut Gate in the Peak District left me soaked to the bone, psychologically deflated and questioning what I was doing. I needed sanctuary, and walking into the home of Pete and Alice McNeil was a blessing. This pair celebrated their marriage with a two-year, two-wheeled journey across the globe, before returning to the UK to start a bikepacking tour business. Their insight into the struggles of the road and life afterwards was so enthusiastically shared, without feeling forced, that I left reinvigorated, not only for my next five weeks in the saddle but for what lay beyond.