We get o the beaten
This quiet corner of the Lakes has it all – fantastic technical descents, challenging climbs, stunning scenery – and hardly a soul there to share it with
track in a quiet corner of the Lake District for a superb remote ride from the village of Seathwaite
It’s been a hard week riding some of the Lake District’s finest rough and rocky trails, which has taken its toll on both riders and bikes. So much so that now, on our final day, we’re a rider down, my bike is terminally ill, and Russell and I are only just still standing. It’d be easy (and probably wise) to quit while we’re ahead, but with the sun out, an exciting route planned and a spare e-bike on loan to me, we decide to tough it out for one more day.
Today’s route is somewhat tucked away from the usual suspects, down on the south-western edge of the Lake District, meaning it sees a lot less tyre and footfall than many of the trails around these parts. However, riders who venture out this far are rewarded for their efforts with quiet trails, stunning views and some superb singletrack, as well as the technical, rocky riding that the Lake District is famous for serving up.
Back o’ beyond
After winding our way down the long and narrow road to Seathwaite (having made sure it’s the correct place, west of Windermere, not the village of the same name, south of Keswick), we eventually arrive at the Newfield Inn, which marks the start and, more importantly, the end of our ride. Being treated to some electrical assistance today, I’ve added an additional northern loop to start us off.
RIDERS WHO VENTURE OUT THIS FAR ARE REWARDED WITH QUIET TRAILS, STUNNING VIEWS AND SOME SUPERB SINGLE TRACK, AS WELL AS THE TECHNICAL, ROCKY RIDING THE LAKE DISTRICT IS FAMOUS FOR SERVING UP
This means we have to ride back up the road the way we just drove, but trust me, it’s worth it to end at the pub after a superb descent. The tarmac is quickly and painlessly dispatched, and we’re soon crossing a lovely stone bridge that transports us over the fast-gushing water of the River Duddon. In summertime, the deep, clear pools would be tempting to plunge into, but today we push on to the base of the looming mound of Harter Fell.
There’s a bridleway straight up this hillside, but it’s too steep and technical for us, even with e-bikes. Instead, we wind our way back down the other side of the Dunnerdale Valley, darting off onto a nicely overgrown track that weaves downhill between the encroaching trees. We cut in tight around the corners and get whipped by the low branches, like slalom skiers between the poles. It’s a great bit of fun before we’re back out in the open and enjoying the views as we gain height once again.
Soon enough we’re at the head of the trail, which is the real reason we’ve ventured over this side of the valley. Before we enjoy the force of gravity drawing us down this technical and rocky route, we pause to soak in the panorama. As much as it’s beautiful, it’s also a daunting view across the valley to the Walna Scar Road, which can be seen relentlessly climbing up towards the Old Man of Coniston and the next leg of our journey.
For now though, this climb is far easier and the descent down Wallow barrow is a fun and challenging affair, with loose rocks and switchbacks to keep us on our toes. It feels all the better because it’s deathly quiet, as if almost forgotten, with even the popular climbing spot of Wallowbarrow Crags deserted. Well, it was quiet until both brakes and riders start to squeal their way down this exhilarating descent.
Friends electric
Back in Seathwaite I’m all up for visiting the pub, but with time of the essence, we decide to stock up on supplies from our van and crack straight on with the next, bigger, loop. It’s a tough technical climb that leads us up to Walna Scar from here, but we’re not going all the way to the top and, being on an e-bike, I’m enjoying the challenge – a pleasant change from the usual feeling of dread
THE SINGLE TRACK HUGS THE SIDE OF THE VALLEY, ENABLING HIGH SPEED WITH LITTLE EFFORT, AND IS DOT TED WITH BONUS ROCKS TO LEAP OFF
I have at this spot! With the more technical portion of the climb completed, we peel off and avoid the final grind to the top, heading through some old quarry slag-heaps instead. We play around on these for a bit, before pulling on some warm layers and settling down on the slate cliff edge to admire the stunning view, complemented nicely by some Jaffa Cakes.
Powered by gravity
After a while, prompted by said treats being blown out of our hands, we decide we can enjoy the views while riding, so we head off to the next trail on the menu – the sumptuous singletrack beside the River Lickle. While the track over the top is a bit soft, wet and vague in places, I tell myself it’s just adding to the sense of adventure. The lure of the impending trail, which I know never disappoints, makes it easy to remain positive. It’s a bit like the Doethie Valley singletrack, being tucked out of the way, and although it’s much shorter, it’s fantastic, and actually in better nick. The singletrack hugs the steep side of the valley above the river before it gradually descends, enabling high speed with little effort, and is dotted with bonus rocks to leap off. Water droplets from the stream splashes are catching the rays of the setting sun, which provide material for a lame joke about it being a blinding trail to ride.
It comes to an end at Stephenson Ground, where we have to climb back up to the barren moors and then bear left around the edge on an undulating path, with more sweeping views across the valley to the Dunnerdale Fells and beyond. Russell gets all excited and wants to snap some pictures, and with some juice still in my battery, I’m more than willing to oblige. Riding up, down and all around these hills, I get so carried away trying to see what crazy-steep gradients I can get this e-bike up that the little red battery light starts blinking and calls a quick halt to my antics. Luckily, it’s all downhill from here, and probably the best descent of the day – a long, wild and technical blast all the way back down to Seathwaite, with jagged slabs and loose rocks to contend with. There are also sections that require you to release the brakes, providing a full-on fast and furious descent that takes every ounce of our concentration. Bathed in the last golden light of the day, with long shadows being cast down the hill, it takes all of Russell’s self-control to not stop and take more photos.
Save the best till last
It’s a superb way to finish not only a great day’s riding, but also an inspiring week in the Lakes, and we have it all to ourselves! What makes it even better is the knowledge that there’s a hot meal and a pint with my name on it waiting in the pub. On a summer’s day it’d be tempting to start the ride at the top of the road by the bridge over to Birks, for a cooling dip in the river, but today we’ll definitely take warming ourselves with a hot meal by a fire in preference.
The Lake District is full of classic rides, but it does get busy, so it’s good to get off the beaten track to ride in one of the quieter parts. This route provides that sense of peace, as well as some stunning trails and a great pub at the end. It’s also e-bike friendly. So get yourself here, but don’t go telling everyone…