HOW TO Self-service your bike

Missed out on a £50 government Fix Your Bike voucher? (https://tinyurl.com/bikevoucher) Fear not, just keep on top of these eight tasks to identify problems early and save yourself money and tears

Keep it clean

Cleaning your bike will not only improve its appearance, but will also stop any caked-on dirt from accelerating corrosion and wear of components, including the suspension pivots, chain and bearings. Pay particular attention to the drivetrain, making sure to dry the chain with a rag and relube it afterwards. See MBUK

377 for further details. Keep suspension seals nice and clean too, giving them a gentle wipe to remove dust and dirt, then a quick spray of suspension lube.

BB check

Give each crank arm a wiggle from side to side. If there’s play, check the cranks are tightened to the manufacturer’s recommended torque settings. Still some play? It’ll be the bottom bracket that’s the cause. A worn BB can a ect your pedalling, rob your bike of power and sometimes damage your cranks. You’ll need to replace it with the BB type specific to your cranks and frame. Threaded BBs are easy to replace with the right tool. For press-fit BBs, see MBUK 355.

Hub horrors

Check your throughaxles are tight and hold the bike steady while wiggling each rim from side to side, looking for play. Take each wheel out and spin the axle between your fingers. If it’s rough or notchy, the bearings are knackered. Most modern wheels use cartridge bearings, which need replacing – see the wheel manufacturer’s website. Older or Shimano wheels often use cup-and-cone bearings that can be serviced, with no need for new parts if you get in early.

Shifting solutions

If your gears aren’t behaving themselves, first check that the rear axle is secure and that the mech is tightened onto its hanger properly. Then try re-indexing your gears. If the shifter is sti to operate or the gears are still reluctant to shift in both directions, it’s probably time for new cables. The reduced friction will improve the shifting no end and make your bike feel like new.

Headset, go

Pull the front brake lever and gently rock the bike back and forth with one hand while feeling for play in the upper headset cup with the other. If there is some, loosen the bolts on the back of the stem, tighten the top cap bolt and retighten the stem bolts, before checking again. Now lift the front wheel and turn the bar. If the headset is creaky or rough-feeling, the bearings will need to be replaced. You may want to ask your local bike shop for help with this.

Pivot problems

If you have a full-suspension bike, make sure all the pivot bolts and shock bolts are tight (ideally using a torque wrench and the manufacturer’s specs), regularly. If pivot bolts work loose on the trail it can end in tears, trust us! Next, lift the bike up by the seat tube while watching and feeling the shock eyelets for play. If there is some, you’ll need to replace the shock bushings. Ask the frame manufacturer what dimensions you need.

Chain check

As a chain starts to ‘stretch’ (due to degradation of the bushings and pins), it wears the chainring(s), cassette and jockey wheels at an exponential rate, so replacing it early can save you a fortune – a cassette can outlast three chains if you swap them out in time. If you don’t have a chain checker tool, simply measure 10 chain links with a ruler. They should measure 10in; if they’re nearer to 10-1/16in (about 0.6 per cent stretch) it’s time to replace the chain.

Suspension service

Perhaps the most expensive mistake you can make is to neglect servicing your fork and shock. Ignoring service intervals both reduces performance through increased friction and accelerates wear, which can become expensive. You can perform a basic lower leg or air can service at home. This should be done every 50 to 100 hours of riding, or every six to 12 months. BikeRadar have some videos on this, or see MBUK 380 and 381 for shocks, and 362 and 382 for forks.