Northern Rivers Style

Q&A with chef Sean Connolly

Kate O’neill catches up with celebrated internatio­nal chef Sean Connolly

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Sean Connolly is an award-winning English-born Australian chef, who own restaurant­s all over the world, including the Balcony Bar and Oyster Co in Byron Bay, where he is chef and culinary director.

Sean hosted the celebrated 13-part SBS television series My Family Feast, authored the cookbook of the same name and is one of Australia and New Zealand’s most respected and recognisab­le chefs.

He will appear as a special guest of the Ballina Food and Wine Festival in July.

What was the first thing you ever cooked?

Oh blimey! Probably toast. But I was the only boy in my home economics class and one of the first dishes I made was an apple pie. I remember I was so excited to take it home to my family and it was then that I realised how happy food could make people. Food is the way to people’s hearts and that’s when I knew what I really wanted to do – cook for people and make them happy.

What made you decide to become a chef?

I’ve always been interested in cooking and recipes but I found it really interestin­g hanging out with my grandmothe­r talking about her struggles through the Second World War and how they coped through adversity with interestin­g recipes and ingredient­s. She taught me lots about old-fashioned dishes like dumplings and Yorkshire puddings.

Also my mum used to let me cook a lot at home. So I put my love for cooking down to the inspiratio­n of those two women. They really set me up in my life.

What’s your food philosophy?

I think the older I get the simpler my food gets. I truly believe that less is more. It’s all about the produce driving the flavours, especially the produce we have up in Byron. I think that a lot of my food looks simple but there’s a lot of thought process and complexity in the dishes. I’m less about presentati­on and more about the depth, complexity and care taken with each dish. Good food should speak for itself.

You have restaurant­s all over the world – what attracted you to Byron Bay?

Byron Bay is on the world map as one of the coolest destinatio­ns on the planet! To have the opportunit­y to cook and be in Byron is a very special thing for me. Back in 1989 I spent a lot of time in Byron and travelling around. It’s an infectious place. People have said that Byron has changed but I don’t think it’s changed much over the years. The essence and atmosphere is still there and I think it always will be.

What are your favourite dishes on the Balcony menu?

Oysters, oysters, oysters! I also love our vegetarian dishes. From the cauliflowe­r popcorn to the zucchini noodles, the cauliflowe­r steak and the mushroom gnocchi. I love cooking vegetarian food – it’s very clean and good for the soul. I love the breakfast bowl that’s available on weekends. It just sets me up for the day – it’s all stuff that makes you feel good. It doesn’t sit too heavy. It fits in with my lifestyle and the lifestyle of Byron really.

Favourite places to eat in Byron apart from the Balcony?

Bayleaf is amazing for breakfast. I love The Treehouse too, it’s a great spot for pizzas. The one place I’m really excited to check out is Barrio. It sounds amazing and I can’t wait to visit next time I’m in town.

What do you cook when you’re at home?

I’m a roast chicken fiend. I love a good roast chicken. I’d do that every night of the week if I could. Charles Gabriel showed me how to make real southern fried chicken when I was in the Bronx in New York so that’s what I like to do as a special treat. Fried chicken in our house is always served with barbecue corn cobs and my roast chicken is perfect paired with duck fat roast potatoes.

Your most memorable meal?

Just yesterday I had a meal in St. Germain, Paris, that is now my ultimate death-row meal. If I had to go anywhere to eat before I die I would go to Le Comptoir Paris. Purely classic French food. I ate snails, black pudding and creme caramel.

What would you be doing if you weren’t a chef?

I’d be a florist. I love flowers. I know it’s very hard work and very unforgivin­g but I’d love to be a florist. Flowers just interest me enormously and I adore them but I like flowers in vases not in my food. I’d also love to do floral sculptures. Tracy Deep is someone I admire. She does the most amazing floral sculptures – she is an inspiratio­n!

Give us a little taste of what we can expect at your cooking demo at the upcoming Ballina Food and Wine Festival?

I will be doing a collection of our vegetarian dishes to showcase the calibre of local produce.

Sean Connolly will appear on the Cooking Demonstrat­ion stage at the Ballina Food and Wine Festival on Sunday, July 1. ballinafoo­dandwine.com.au

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