Day 3 still Life Fo­cusED FIT­NESS

The aut­o­fo­cus mech­a­nism is one of the hard­est SLR sys­tems for any pho­tog­ra­pher to fully con­trol

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Fo­cus­ing is easy to mas­ter if you have plenty of depth of field. If you use a wide lens with a nar­row aper­ture and don’t get too close to your tar­get you won’t have a prob­lem, but start us­ing a long tele­photo, a macro, or a fast-wide aper­ture prime at it widest aper­ture and you will soon find that get­ting the cam­era to fo­cus ac­cu­rately and re­li­ably on the right point takes some skill. Fo­cus­ing man­u­ally by sim­ply look­ing through the viewfinder is use­less on a D-SLR, you have to trust the aut­o­fo­cus. But you need to tell it where to fo­cus. In many sit­u­a­tions, choos­ing the fo­cus point is not enough. The AF feeds off con­trast, so you need to point it at some­thing with an edge or with some tex­ture that it can lock onto. Most im­por­tantly, get into the habit of check­ing your shots are sharp be­fore you leave the scene and lose the abil­ity to reshoot! wait for the green light Gen­tly squeeze the trig­ger to get the aut­o­fo­cus to fire up. When it finds its tar­get and locks on, a green light ap­pears in the viewfinder (and you get an op­tional beep too). Dif­fer­ent Nikons have dif­fer­ent num­bers of aut­o­fo­cus points. Your SLR can pick the one to use, but it’s good prac­tice to get used to se­lect­ing it yourself. Choose the Sin­gle Point AF mode, then use the four-way con­troller on the back of the cam­era to choose the one that you want, which will light up. The aut­o­fo­cus needs to be awake and work­ing, so you may need to give the trig­ger a squeeze be­fore you pick your AF point Live rounds In low light, or when you are very close to your tar­get, it can of­ten be eas­ier and more ac­cu­rate to fo­cus us­ing Live View. You then aut­o­fo­cus on any point in the frame.

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