PHOTO RE­VIEW

Your im­ages as­sessed by our ex­pert panel

NPhoto - - Front Page -

Cur­rently I shoot with a Nikon D7100, though some of these im­ages were taken with a D5100. My two favourite lenses are the Nikon 55mm-300mm DX zoom and the 105mm macro lens.

I love to shoot wildlife. I’m fas­ci­nated by tiny life that looks alien or mon­strous when mag­ni­fied. It’s amaz­ing how much there is to pho­to­graph so close to home. I take my cam­era when I travel, and use the op­por­tu­nity to pho­to­graph an­i­mals at aquar­i­ums and zoos.

With my wildlife shots, I would like to be able to take more dy­namic pho­to­graphs, such as birds in flight, rather than slow or sta­tion­ary crea­tures. For my macro work I would love to learn how to bet­ter light my sub­jects to look nat­u­ral (right now I use an LED flash­light and an SB-700 flash) and to ven­ture into ex­treme macro at greater than 1:1 mag­ni­fi­ca­tions. How­ever, the shal­low depth of field in macro work is lim­it­ing me.

I hope that as I con­tinue to shoot I will im­prove as a wildlife pho­tog­ra­pher. The world is so in­ter­est­ing – it’s nice to cap­ture a lit­tle bit of it.

N-PHOTO SAYS…

We’re im­pressed with your im­ages, Gina. You’ve got a fan­tas­tic range of shots, cov­er­ing macro and ac­tion, and an ex­cel­lent han­dle on the con­trols of your cam­era. The main ways for you to im­prove your pho­tog­ra­phy are to up­grade your kit, and try some cre­ative tech­niques.

As macro and wildlife pho­tog­ra­phy re­quire very dif­fer­ent tech­niques we’ll ad­dress them separately. Your wildlife shots show dy­namic fram­ing, but you could ben­e­fit from opt­ing for a brighter lens, such as a 70-200mm f/2.8 VR, and al­low­ing the VR to com­pen­sate for any hand­shake.

In one image your shut­ter speed is 1/1250 sec, which is per­fect for freez­ing the ac­tion, but can re­move some of the drama from the shot. Us­ing a slower shut­ter speed will give you dy­namic blur for dra­matic shots. By re­duc­ing your fo­cal point to only the cen­tre spot you can also make fram­ing, and fo­cus­ing, eas­ier.

If the an­i­mal is static, try get­ting down to eye level. It cre­ates a unique per­spec­tive, and can give you the op­por­tu­nity for some eye con­tact. Re­search­ing the habits of the an­i­mals will give you a bet­ter chance of cre­at­ing these im­ages, and of pre-vi­su­al­is­ing your shots.

Your macro im­ages are great, but another light source may be needed. A ring flash al­lows for the light to be di­rected to­wards to the sub­ject, and pro­vides a more dif­fused source than the nor­mal flash. Al­ter­na­tively, your ex­ist­ing flash can be used off-cam­era with a wire­less Phot­tix Strato TTL Trig­ger (£129/$130). You can then at­tach a Sto-Fen Omni-Bounce OM700 (£12/$10), which will dif­fuse the light. This will al­low you to work with slightly slower shut­ter speeds for more depth of field, as it should af­ford you a few stops.

profi le ■ Gina Ro­hekar is based in Lon­don, On­tario, in Canada. She’s sur­rounded by the kind of wildlife most of us only dream of, and is ea­ger to take ad­van­tage of it.

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