STEP BY STEP / Us­ing a hon­ey­comb grid

NPhoto - - Nikon Skills -

1 At­tach the gun We popped a Speed­light onto our Nikon’s hot­shoe and set the flash­gun to TTL (through-the-lens) mode. Here, the cam­era sets the power out­put of the flash, based on the ex­po­sure set­tings di­alled in, by mea­sur­ing the light from a pre-flash fired just be­fore the main flash is fired. 2 At­tach the grid Next we at­tached our Strobo Kit mount to the busi­ness end of the Speedlite. The mount is vari­able in size and ac­com­mo­dates the ma­jor­ity of flash­gun sizes via an ad­justable Vel­cro strap. Once the mount is on, mag­nets hold the hon­ey­comb grid at­tach­ment firmly in place. 3 Cam­era set­tings In Man­ual mode, we set the aper­ture to f/11 for max­i­mum depth of field, en­sur­ing the model was sharp from front to back. The shut­ter was set to 1/200 sec, which is the max­i­mum flash sync speed of our cam­era, and we used ISO100 to keep noise to a min­i­mum. 4 Hor­i­zon­tal ori­en­ta­tion With your Nikon in land­scape ori­en­ta­tion, you’ll get an even light across the face of your model. The shad­ows will be min­i­mized be­hind the model be­cause the light is com­ing from straight above the lens. The only defin­ing shad­ows fall slightly un­der the nose and chin. 5 Ver­ti­cal ori­en­ta­tion Hold­ing your cam­era in por­trait ori­en­ta­tion will force the flash off to one side of the model. This gives a stronger shadow across one side of the model’s face, adding con­tour and tex­ture to the fea­tures. It also casts a shadow to one side be­hind them. 6 Choose your back­ground We shot the main im­age in­doors against a plain back­ground, but this tech­nique will work equally well out­side. For in­stance, you may want to find a brick wall and rat­tle off some more shots. The hard light of the flash will com­ple­ment the rough brick tex­ture.

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