Ask Matthew
Our resident Nikon expert Matthew Richards answers your questions and solves your problems. If you have a Nikon-related question, email it to mail@nphotomag.com
Our Nikon savant Matthew answers all your questions
I have 12-bit and 14-bit colour depth options for Raw files in my D750, plus two types of compression, or no compression at all. Which is the best setting? Clive Gordon
Most of us convert our Raw files to JPEG format, which only has 8-bit colour depth. Compared with this, 12-bit Raw files can hold a lot more information, while 14-bit Raw files go even further. Greater colour depth in Raw files gives more latitude for editing, for example with extra greater dynamic range. This can help with reigning in highlights, and boosting shadows to give greater detail.
For compression settings, the regular compression option is slightly lossy, a bit like using a very high-quality JPEG mode, so some image information is lost. Lossless compression is similar to the LZW option for TIFF format image files, or ZIP compression. All source image data is retained, but the file size is generally larger. The only real advantage to using no compression at all is that work is less intensive for the camera’s image processor, so you may notice an increase in battery life. Personally, I find the 14-bit Compressed option is generally the best compromise.
I’ve been advised to use ‘back button focusing’ on my Z 6, but I’m wondering how the camera sets the exposure, normally obtained with a half-press of the shutter button?
John Turner
In its default setting, the AF-ON button at the rear of the Z 6 and Z 7 activates autofocus for ‘backbutton focusing’. Unlike in an SLR, the exposure metering system of these mirrorless cameras runs full-time, rather than being activated by a half-press of the shutter button, and keeps going until the camera times out into standby mode. So you don’t need to apply a half-press of the shutter button to activate light metering, unless the camera is in standby mode. Another option for the shutter button is that you can assign a half-press to an ‘AE-L’ (Auto Exposure-lock) function, locking the exposure value to its current setting. You can apply this in the Custom Setting Menu, position ‘c1’.
My D5500 is on the original firmware V1.00, but it won’t recognize the update file that I’ve downloaded from Nikon.
Is it really worth updating? Frank Bauer
One thing that isn’t clear in the download page’s instructions, is that you need to copy just the D5500_0102.bin file to the ‘root’ or top-level directory of an SD card, once you’ve extracted it. Don’t copy the whole
D5500 Update folder, or put the file in any other folder on the card. The same applies to the NKLD0218.BIN lens distortion update file and, in this case, you should also remove the lens from the camera before updating.
Applying firmware updates to the D5500 enables VR (Vibration Reduction) to be switched on and off when using lenses that don’t have a physical VR switch. A ‘Custom Settings’ menu a5 option is also added, for enabling or disabling the operation of the manual focus ring in AF mode when using some lenses.
I’ve bought a Z 6 kit with 24-70mm zoom lens and FTZ mount adapter. Which compact telephoto zoom would you suggest to supplement this?
Mary Watts
I bought the same kit and debated which lightweight telephoto zoom to add. The only native Z-mount telephoto zoom so far is the Z 70-200mm f/2.8 VR S, which is great, but it’s big, heavy and very expensive. The top two current choices are F-mount zooms that you can use via the FTZ mount adaptor.
I went for the AF-P 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6e ED VR (£535/$547), which works a treat, has fast and silent AF and delivers excellent image quality. My second choice would be the AF-S 70-200mm f/4g ED VR (£1349/ $1397). It’s pricier and has less overall zoom range, but you might prefer the constant-aperture design.