CONCEPT CORNER

TASH COLLINS, OWNER OF THIS ISSUE’S COVER CAR, HAS A FEW PLANS BREWING FOR THE NEXT ONE …

By now, you’ll no doubt have seen and read all about Tash Collins’ awesome ’55 Chev Nomad. The car is the perfect mix of flawless looks and drivability. There’s plenty of room in the car for the whole family, and the LS2 under the hood fires it up no worries at the turn of the key. What if Tash wanted something with a bit more go, though? Well, we suspect that her husband Todd’s been colluding with her here, as she states that the pair wouldn’t mind building a pro-street ’68 or ’69 Pontiac GTO. We’ve seen Tash and Todd’s style, and they’re not the type of couple to go halfway. No, if they were to do a GTO, it’d need to be done right, which means some serious feet on the rear and a slightly raked stance to match. The GTO body shape is a good one right from the factory, so not a lot would need to be done in that department, as even the bumpers are tucked into the body off the production line. The GTO was never offered in deep green, though, so that’s exactly the colour that Tash and Todd would choose to spray theirs, should this dream become a reality. Holden’s Poison Ivy would keep things in the General Motors family, a theme that would also be followed when it came time to select an engine. While the pair is aware that the 707hp Hellcat motors offered by Chrysler are currently the best turnkey option out there — from an OEM perspective, at least — throwing a Mopar into a Pontiac just wouldn’t be right; on the other hand, Chevrolet’s alternative, the supercharged 6.2-litre LS9, would slot right in. With it would come 638hp, thanks to the stock 2.3-litre Rootsstyle supercharger. As much of a handful as this would be, Tash and Todd would back it up with a manual gearbox. Braking would come care of a Wilwood kit for both ends, while suspension would consist of a four-link in the rear with aftermarket arms up front, coilovers setting the ride height all round. Inside, this one would be all about Mum and Dad, a half-cage and the tubs meaning a back seat would be no option. There would be no need for harnesses, though, as, after all, it’d be more about the pro-street vibe and look than actual quartermile performance. Could this be the ultimate stablemate to the Nomad? We sure think so!

JustinfromtheLVVTAsays:

With any big-cube or big-horsepower engine, the steering, suspension, and braking systems are next in line for upgrades. A steering-rack upgrade is commonly included on the to-do list — try to go for a tried and trusted brand, and avoid the European GM-style centre-steer racks, which are cheap and plentiful but can, depending on the installation, be difficult to certify, due to the increased loads and leverage on the rack and its attachment points. Also worth considering with a rack change is the steering ratio, which is often different between boxes and racks. “To get the best out of the conversion, the steering-arm length should be properly matched. As a general rule of thumb, the arm should be approximately 10 per cent shorter than the rack stroke. However, this can’t be done easily if the steering arms are integral with the stub axles; in some cases, it can be better to stick with a good power-box upgrade. There are plenty of aftermarket suspension arms available, and with the ‘China syndrome’ seemingly here to stay, it does pay to choose wisely and shop around. Cheaper is usually not better. Sadly, the same can be said for some overpriced components. In some cases, the more complex or unusual arms also require a design approval to ensure that they’ll be up to the task on our roads, and non-destructive weld testing may also be required. “The rear four-bar set-up would depend on how radical you planned to go; being equipped with a pressed-steel triangulated four-link from the factory means that some simple upgrades or reinforcing to the arms and adjustable coilovers could do the job. If really big feet or some quarter-mile action were on the cards, a custom four-bar, or even a complete rear chassis clip, could be the way to go, especially if you planned to make the most of the 600-plus horsepower. The New Zealand Car Construction Manual (CCM) has a lot of useful info on chassis modifications and the various four-bar designs and set-ups, including details on arm sizes, bracket design, rod-end joints, and attachments. “With any roll structure located inside a vehicle, the LVVTA’s main consideration is not the ‘roll-over’ protection, as you might assume it to be. Rather, we need to ensure that interior impact — think melon v. roll-bar-tube impact — and seat-belt attachments are adequate. Roll bars are generally designed to be used in conjunction with helmets [and harnesses], so, where helmets wouldn’t be worn, such as here, in a road-going vehicle, the bars would need to fall completely outside the ‘A-zone’ — the area directly around, and in front of, your head — and any bars adjacent to the A-zone would need to be fitted with proper roll-cage padding to minimize head injuries in what would be an otherwise survivable collision. “Likewise, with a seat belt that’s attached to the roll structure — the LVV certifier needs to know the anchorages will be strong enough to hold you and you passenger in place should a collision occur. These requirements are contained in the Vehicle Interior, and Seats and Seatbelts chapters of the CCM. “It’s good to see more people showing some appreciation for the now-defunct Pontiac brand, and this one would sure turn some heads!”