MIKE BARI — NXT LVL AUTOMOTIVE
When a client approaches us at NXT LVL Automotive with a build, we start by getting a feel for what they want to do to their vehicle. Right from the beginning, you need to set out an end goal, or result as to how it should look, drive and what sort of power they’re after, etc. Then, as a series of requirements they want from this build, i.e, cruiser, street/strip, muscle car, restoration, etc. We generally throw a few realistic ideas about and discuss the financial input. This part is very important to ensure that the customer and we are on the same page. We all want twin-turbos, massive brakes, supercar suspension, and trick exotic leather interior … OK, maybe not everyone, but it’s easy to get carried away and lead to that without realizing the costs involved. A build of that magnitude can easily end up costing hundreds of thousands of dollars. Even with smaller modifications, it’s easy for vehicle owners to underestimate just how much work is involved, so it’s better to have these conversations up front, as while they may be expecting a job to cost $10K–$20K, the reality may be closer to $30K–$40K, especially when [there are] … other modifications above what was initially scoped. It’s important to make sure you are firm on how the project is run and make sure that anyone who work is outsourced to is on the same page. Sometimes, the best option is to get the project managed — much as you would with a housebuilding project — we have some clients who like to get the work done, but we keep an eye on how it’s run for them.
There’s a lot to take into consideration when planning or managing a build: what power plant they want and what power levels is the beginning. This then leads on to brakes, driveline modifications, chassis, modifications, and exhaust requirements.
Then you’ll need Low Volume Vehicle certification, and everything that’s required for that process. This can also lead into body modifications, which may lead to the transmission tunnel and firewalls being modified, and, of course, thinking about the driveshaft tunnel and rear tubs.
The scope of this work will have an effect on the interior, as a larger tunnel may inhibit foot space, shifting pedals, etc., while rear tubs may affect the rear seat, etc. At this stage, it’s also best to consider wiring. No one wants the car not starting after cruising; likewise, low voltage or fires are something no one wants. So, it’s important to take into consideration the electrical requirements, with fuel pumps, fans, water pumps, ignition, computers, etc., and what condition the wiring is in to start with. Lots of old cars arrive with multiple crimp joiners and wiring that looks like a bird’s nest, which is not the best place to start. In this instance, larger alternators, and possibly a full rewire, could end up being the best option.
If the vehicle requires panel and paint, we recommend to pretty much build the car — to as far as practical, right down to seat mounts, driveshaft hoops, etc. — prior to panel and paint, so when the car returns you’re not grinding and cutting, or getting caught with, “Oh, let’s fit a roll cage”, or, “Hey, I’ve changed the wheels and tyres”. This is the importance of the idea ‘reason for end-game result’ at the start of the project. It’s not hard to plan it out properly from the get go, and you’ll save a lot of time, money, and heartache by doing so.
The other consideration is time frame. TV is a great tool for ideas, but these shows don’t generally showcase a realistic timeframe, as with 15 people working around the clock, it can be done in seven days, but be prepared to see months and months, or, in a lot of cases, years, before the final result will be ready to see the light of day. The best thing is to have as many ideas thrown around as possible in the beginning, as it helps in the long run.