LIZ STEWART AND RYAN GRACIE — BURNOUT LEGENDS AND MULTIPLE FEATURE-CAR OWNERS

Multiple NZV8 feature-car builders Liz Stewart and Ryan Gracie have been through more builds than most, and when asked for their thoughts they stated: “When building a car, you should already have an idea or an impact that you want to achieve with your build, whether it is to create a clean dailydriver or a statement build, the desired outcome should already be planned or mapped out.” Bodywork is the first consideration — any rust repairs or body mods, these need to be completed before any other component. So, if tubbing, pick your wheel size and build. Don’t choose your wheels and build your car around those — wheels date very quickly, so should be one of the last items chosen for your build to complete it. Paint colour and timing is also critical, as it’s the component of your build that people will judge the most. Paint application and timing will be dependent on your build type and what effect you are after. You don’t want to paint your engine bay then build headers, but, vice versa, you also don’t want to paint your engine bay with the engine fitted. Think of your paint like the first layer of icing: it is critical that it has minimal imperfections. Knocks from panel assembly, or even scratches from engine placement, all need to be taken into account, as it really detracts from the overall look. Engine-bay mods need to be mapped out when bodywork is taking place. Basically, you should have a list of things you want your build to have. Shaved handles, de-loomed engine bay, and tubs should all be done in the initial stages of the build. This is so that, if your budget permits more, you go a step further at the initial stages instead of after panelling is complete.

Engine and drivetrain are probably the easiest parts of the build, yet they are the most expensive and encompass the most options. The key thing to remember is to build it for a specific purpose. If the build is intended for street, don’t build a 1000hp monster — it does not make economic sense — the additional driveline requirements will gobble money that is better spent on other items of your build. Then, do it once and do it right. Don’t build cheap or you will need to be repairing and replacing items when you should be out enjoying the build.

Remember to build the driveline to handle what is up front — a weekend warrior does not need a $20K transmission. However, if it is a burnout monster then, yes, that transmission will be required! Careful planning is needed for engine bays: weld up unneeded holes, old mounts, wiring fixtures, etc. Plan engine mounts for your purpose; solid mounts won’t be required for a street car. Many mounts are now readily available from Australia from the likes of Tuff Mounts, Castlemaine Rod Shop, McDonald Bros, etc. Position the motor so headers can still be made and the exhaust can be built fairly easily, taking into account changing of the spark plugs. We have had cars that take two hours to do the plugs, or half a day to do header gaskets or a starter-motor change. The exhaust has to be up high enough to provide ground clearance, but not

too high to scorch the floor when it gets hot after a wheel-burn leaving the pub.

Rewiring can often be necessary. These days, people run a computer, a few fuel pumps, and electric fans. Therefore, the wiring needs to be up to the task: a fuse box and relays are necessary. We run a dual battery system, three Bosch pumps, four fans, and a Pro Drag 8 ignition, so we need a lot of juice. The interior is usually quite difficult. Seats need to suit your purpose — fixed-backs in a twodoor doesn’t really work. An easy fix is to trim the back seat and door cards to suit the front seats. Alternatively, take the whole lot to an upholsterer. If you’re going for a factory look, there are whole interior kits available from Rare Spares or similar retailers.

Bumpers are fairly easy; there are places that re-chrome for a lot of American vehicles. New chrome bumpers are cheap: $200 for a new, fresh ’69 Camaro bumper from Chucks! We welded up the holes in the Torana bumpers, cut them down, shortened the bumper mounts, then painted them, which is often a relatively easy way of doing it. Brake conversions. Wow, where to start. The sky is your limit. Pick something that fits your budget; some brakes are super expensive. Good entry-level brake conversions are easily available from suppliers in New Zealand, with many, like Cardwells, having bolt-on kits for a lot of vehicles.

Or you could look across the ditch for bolt-on kits for anything: CRS, McDonald Bros, United Speed, and Hoppers Stoppers all do great kits. Remember that changing the brakes changes many aspects of the build: master cylinder, booster, brake lines, not to mention wheel fitment. Bigger discs and calipers require larger diameter rims for clearance. All of this also needs certing! Suspension upgrades are a must — most cars sit too high from the factory. Coilovers are an easy fix, but then must be certified. Lowered springs are readily available for most cars; leaf springs can be easily and safely re-set lower. Don’t forget to then get shortened shocks so that the old standardheight ones don’t bottom out.

Wheels can be the fun part of the build … or not. With literally hundreds of wheels to choose from, it is extremely hard to pick something to stand out these days. Places like Mag & Turbo have programmes that can photoshop wheels onto an image of your car, making the job a bit easier. Alternatively, you can narrow down your search then go into the store of your choice and see if they can trial-fit a few. Obviously, the car will have been designed early on to fit a certain size of wheels, taking into account guard rub, possible tubbing, rolling guards, etc. Remember the caliper clearance too.

And the best advice: don’t take other people’s opinions to heart. Building a car is actually quite an expressive undertaking, almost artistic. Not everyone can cope with different or out-of-thebox ideas. And do remember average and normal are everyday — dare to be different.